ah I see. That seems like a better design. Easier to deal with it seems like.
Not sure I can get a hold of an idler for this specific mount either. I guess I could 3D print something and combine with a ball bearing
both have their pros and cons, but i’d say most of us use the slot design, and if they need more teeth engagement, then u can add an idler on it (as long as the mount support an idler)
u don’t really need any thing special, just a screw, nyloc, few washers, and either one wide bearing or two bearings
don’t forget if u have two bearings next to each other, put a thin washer / shim in between
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I’d also suggest to use three skate bearings and not two, because a 15mm belt can jump off easier on two.
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Yeah I see how you mean. Enough bearings to cover the width of the belt and washers to prevent rubbing against the bolt, wall and bearing
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probably a better idea
exactly, just make sure u don’t use tiny bearing, regular 608 bearing should work alraedy
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alright excellent 
Thank you all for helping! Made it a lot clearer and also probably prevented an accident 
I found regular 608 for 6 euros a pop at a local store
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Interesting…
I’ve got two fs6374s and a DV6.
Flipsky states 85A max. MakerX says 120A per side, don’t know if that’s peak or continuous.
But if i crank the settings from 80A phase to 100 or 120A, what’s the risk - potentially overheating the motors?
that’s robbery… they should be less than 2 euros
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WHAT.THE.FUCK?
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The motors may fail. Magnets might delam or can could come loose. You may also encounter ABS overcurrent fault
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While it must be nice to be able to have metric parts stocked at a local store, that’s a ridiculously high price. If you’re in urgent need, that would be great, but otherwise I might keep looking, maybe for something to order via post.
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hello after a long break
tested this motor with another vesc and it works well
also Bad-VESC updated to the latest firmware (in VESCtool),
but when connecting two Vesc via CANBUS, and want to do motor detection- error to firmware
found this topic, for my case
12s battery/6368s/flipsky fsesc6.6
Be careful, this is sometimes difficult to undo and doesn’t always solve problems, and has the opportunity to make new problems. Just know this is what you want, and don’t do it simply because VESC Tool says to.
(Although in the newest test versions, this is a lot easier to undo)
You need to make sure all the ESCs on the CANBUS have the same firmware. So in the bottom left you can switch which ESC you are connected to. Put the same firmware version on each one.
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Are you at 165 motor amps on DV6? Did you try on Stormcore?
I’m currently sitting at 100 motor amps on Stormcore but I’m a little sketched to go higher for fear of overcurrents. Temps looks stable though so I’m tempted
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I think I will go with SP13-2 which I can source locally instead of waiting for the GX. It has 13A rating and female panel socket. Thank you for your input.
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Yes I believe that is what he’s running
Yeah I currently have the same conundrum. What temps you have? Is there a heatsink installed?
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Heatsink installed
I need a longer ride to compare but temps seemed to be a lot more controlled
Before heatsink (1hr-ish ride) temps up between 70-80C
After heatsink (1/2hr-ish rides) temps below 50C (so far)
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So it looks like what I thought was originally a motor issue was likely a controller issue. There was no damage anywhere on the motor and when I switched the phase wires and sensor wires the motor in question spun up again wothout problems. I also performed parts of the bldc hand test and the motor behaved normally.
Before I approach bkb for repair or replacement, could one side of the controller not working properly cause the cogging in the video below? There’s less than 100km on this controller.