Do you have traction control enabled?
Traction control is OFF
Yeah, that’s the usual method and it works nicely.
You should definitely add a fuse to the charge port.
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Thank you for the response, do you know if the fuse should be added on the positive or negative side?
It doesn’t matter which polarity.
Whichever one works better physically.
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Used battery Regen to -45A but my battery is rated for 6A charge, 4p would be max 24. Used the -45A setting for 2-3 days, any chance I damaged my cells?
Anybody have any idea why my ESC is getting so hot? I have two 6s 13000mah lipos in series. My settings are: battery 45a, motor 120a. I have a ubox 75v/100a. Regen is 35a. I can ride for 4 miles or so and my ESC is hot to the touch so I pull over and let it cool.
Any chance? I mean yeah, technically there is the slightest of chances.
But nah, you are totally fine. I seriously doubt you even got down to -45A, that’s a LOT of brake.
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mAh
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I also used the -45A for each motor so that would be -90 A total. Uff
Motor amps and battery amps are NOT the same.
Extra large motor amp numbers are probably fine and in fact probably better
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My batteries are 2 6s lipos in series so that’s a 12s right? I have them set to charge to 4.15v per cell so its 52.something total right? Just curious, why would it get hotter with a lower voltage battery?
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= 49,8v (50.4v if fully charged)
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So one of my LiPos was charging and ended up with a 0.3v on one cell. My balance charger wasn’t smart enough to start balancing and now I’ve got one cell at 4.4v while the rest were still around 4.1-4.2v It won’t recognised the battery as lipo or lihv with the balance lead plugged in so I am discharging without the balance plug in the hope I can then switch it to pure balance mode (rather than standard charge which balances at the end).
Still hope for this pack or am I asking for trouble?
Maybe next time I’ll take more notice of the balance and not use the normal charge mode if out by more than 0.1v
For a given fixed power output, if the battery voltage is lower, the controller must draw more current to make up for it. P=IV, power = current x voltage, so if V is lower, I must be higher for the same P.
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I would treat that pack with extreme caution, 4.4v is dangerously high for a conventional lipo and can lead to significant internal damage resulting in loss of capacity, as well as risk of fire.
You might be fine, or you might get three more cycles out of it before it spontaneously decides to self-immolate, there’s simply no way to know.
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Thanks, the cells are balancing well now. The charger was showing LiHv rather than LiPo but think that may have changed automatically after one cell went above 4.2v.
Am I right in thinking I can test the internal resistance to check health of the pack? I have a second charger which has an IR read but looks like it is a total across all cells. What’s acceptable m-ohms for a 6s pack. I read more than 20 for an individual cell then it’s time to retire. Can I test the one cell with a multimeter?
Can anybody point me in the direction of what kind of tool I need to be able to pull this off my trucks?
A bearing puller? I am not sure I am looking at the right tool for it.
A wiper arm or bearing puller is the tool for the job but most I’ve seen don’t have that much depth to them to reach all the way there.
Personally, I’d bolt it back to that larger black plate and heat up the silver part. After some heating, gently tap the black plate with a rubber mallet. If you don’t have a rubber mallet, wrap some fabric scraps around a claw or ball peen hammer. Spread the gentle taps out from side to side, top and bottom. Eventually, it’s gotta give.
Household oil, wd40, or some other penetrating lube (heh) on the shaft may help (double heh)
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Been hammering away since your message now. This is so stuck its incredible lol… I have no clue how to get this off. Been struggeling for 2 days now
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