I would check the belts. Left one looks too loose and the right one I can’t see well but is it too tight?
Although some amount of cogging is okay and normal, that looks like a lot. But it might be fine?
That looks not normal. Do your motors / wheels spin by hand with equal amount of resistance when wheels up?
2 Likes
They definitely don’t spin freely, but they spin. If I spin them by hand, they continue to spin for 2-3 full rotations.
Also, I have tighten the wheel nuts all the way, in order for the inner part of the bearings and wheel spacer to be practically stationary while the outer part of the bearing spins. Is that the way to go?
I typically tighten to just where the spacer stops spinning and then back it off just a tiiiiiny bit. Like a tenth of a turn, maybe less.
2 Likes
I should also mention that these wheels are the old Cloudwheels and their cores are a bit cracked (the inner bearings some times fall in the space between the wheel and pulley). I used them just for testing purposes, to see that everything works (its my first board), and I’m now waiting for some new Rockstar 2s and new pulleys/belts. At least this way I can rule out the wheel factor and focus on belt tension.
here is the aluminum bar I used.
I think I cut about 2 inches off.
and then I used a steel L bracket to bolt down the hitch adapter .
2 Likes
Oh boy, here we go again
2 Likes
Once again you’re so helpful!
You’re right about 2" wide but I was thinking of making it as wide as my MBS baseplate then putting a long bolt in those outside holes of the baseplate to go through my bro deck so the aluminum bar is really well connected to the deck. I’ve done this with the front truck.
I worry about the pulling force of moving a full adult might be too much for my 4 truck m5 screws so I’d definitely feel better with those dual m8 there as well. I had A2 steel m5s in my front truck and took them out when I noticed the front truck was slightly not pointing straight forward. They were bent and not straight after riding 1-2 times. I replaced them with 12.9 screws and they’ve been great so far. I think it doesn’t help that they’re 3in long.
I was also worried about the trailer providing a downward force on the back truck, lifting the front one up like a wheelie because the axle on the trailer seems pretty far back. Idk how well centered this DIY would be. What do you think about this from the pictures and how should I inspect it in-person to make sure it’s good? I think this is my best bet to find an affordable trailer that will carry ~ 70kg, with all the double kids ones being listed as max 45kg.
Also I have some pictures of tutorials to make it more into a seat. Im thinking I leave some of the front side on there for people to put there feet against so they have something to push against and don’t fall forward when I’m braking. Or might add a seat belt. I’d 3d print some bumpers to cover the edges where I cut the metal. Like the red ones standard on the cart above. What does everyone think?
1 Like
I wouldn’t worry about that too much, I doubt you’d exert over 0.5g of acceleration, so let’s say <75kg of force even with a heavy passenger. The shear strength of four 10.9 M5 screws is a minimum of four tons, and potentially higher than that given factors like pretension and friction.
Yeah, that is a possibility, and one that should be avoided by balancing the trailer. Ideally you want some small amount of downforce on the hitch, but it should be less than 10% of the total trailer mass. One way to check that would be with a scale - load up the trailer, put the hitch end on the scale and see how much force there is. Redistribute the weight till the force is what you want.
That’s too far outside my field of expertise and level of detail. You’re on your own for that, sorry.
6 Likes
What do you think of the conversion to a chair like those pics? Would you sit in that while I tow it with my esk8 or does it look too sketchy?
1 Like
I mean…
2 Likes
Personally instead of trying to convert a wire basket into a suitable seat, I’d just remove the basket entirely and attach a gokart seat or similar to the underlying frame.
4 Likes
Who makes direct drive pneumatics?
Aka what are theeeeesee??
1 Like
Looks like some kind of custom adapter to use the same DD motors as the 'thane. Dunno what the wheels are, but it wouldn’t be too difficult to do something similar with other pnummie wheels.
It would kill your effective gear ratio though, unless those are special ultra-low-kv motors.
Didn’t somebody build a board based on hoverboard motors a while back? I think that might have some merit because pnummies actually have enough room in them for a decent sized motor without crippling themselves thermally or making the tire/sleeve so thin that it’s like riding directly on the can.
5 Likes
It’s the board of the CEO of Jetsurf. A DIY. The adapter is probably DIY too, but you can shoot them an email.
Other than that, Janux Quattro hubs and Infinity hubs fit kegel adapters, they are pretty hard to get hold of though
2 Likes
I thought it was the ecomobl planetary drive at first but those cabs are definitely stuck out further than theirs.
3 Likes
I am trying to figure out a plan for my wiring. I’m using the pictured components and thinking of wiring like shown here:
My BMS wiring instructions are as follows:
I am new to using an antispark switch, my thinking was it should be wired separately from the charging port so you could charge the battery regardless of whether it is switched on or not. But maybe I should think about adding a fuse between the battery total positive and charging port?
1 Like
Brakes seem to fail but only when I hit slippery surfaces and the wheels drift. I was able to recreate this on concrete also, when braking and the wheels drift for lower than a sec the braking doesn’t work. This could throw me off because of braking posture.
I’m using current mode with reverse activated. Could it be because of the reverse option, when the wheel drifts vesc might try to reverse. Will try no reverse tomorrow
Are there any faults?
Not a single one
1 Like