Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

I fabricated a hitch attachment out of flat aluminum stock.

it is not pretty but it sure works.

I have it in between the truck and deck in place of the riser.

I have moved my 8 and 5 year old which I’d say are 90 lbs combined no issues.

I mean.
you feel it and it changes the ride but my board can handle it.

I go much slower so it it seems to be easy on the electronics.

I am wondering what kind of trailer you plan on using…

there are some pictures of the board here…

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I know nothing about making stuff out of aluminum so I guess I’m out of luck for finding a way to attach a bike trailer.

How slow do you go?

I was hoping to find something like this but under $500. Probably not possible :slightly_frowning_face:

I found some good deals for double kids trailers for approx $200 with a max weight of 45kg. I’m hoping it can carry light adults ~ 60kg. I’m not so sure about that so I also ran into this for $120… looks like it can handle an adult :joy: what do you think? Could I mod this with a Dremel and make it nice to sit in?



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What tools do you have access to? A hand drill, a hacksaw and a dremel or some files should get you pretty far in aluminum. Obviously more/better tools make things easier/faster, e.g. a drill press, a vise, and/or a set of taps, but they’re not required.

You obviously will have to rely on bolts to join things together if you don’t have a welder (Those low temperature “aluminum welding rods” from the usual scumbags are pretty terrible, I wouldn’t trust them).

Should be pretty easy to make some kind of “trailer hitch” thing from a piece of flat bar that you can sandwich between the deck and your rear truck, and sticks out the back with whatever kind of attachment mechanism the trailer wants.

You might need to bend or otherwise modify the trailer’s tongue to be low enough to attach to the board.

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me neither dude.
I just literally used a hacksaw and hand drill.

nothing fancy.

I expect I keep it under 20mph when towing the kids.

and on the trailer I would have to say try to save up for a legit one, or a legit one that is used.

the shopping cart might roll fine… but I can’t see finding comfort in there unless you are Bam Margera…

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First time running motor detection and config. This would be on a Xenith V2. There are several option for doing so including the BKB software. Looking for ease of use and not having to tweak a million settings to get stable, safe performance. Recommendations? Is the VESC tool’s most recent iteration more user friendly as I’ve heard?

Also, I believe the Xenith that I have in my hand comes with the 23.xx firmware installed. Should I flash to 5.3? My needs are simple- no telemetry, want stability and consistent, safe operation. TIA.

Yes, use 5.3 and the official VESC tool.

BKB said they are shipping new units with 5.3 loaded.

Setup can be complex, but it can also be really simple. Run motor wizard. Run input wizard and go for a ride. Tweak/increase motor amps as needed.

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Never forget to set your battery maximum current.

VESC defaults are not sane in this department.

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Agreed, and just to add to that, pay attention to all settings in the wizards. It asks you for things like pulley sizes, battery voltages, battery amps, etc.

I saw someone post something online where they got a baseplate for a set of trucks and flipped it upside down and through-bolted it on top of their board (going through to the bottom of the board and bolting on to the existing board trucks). They swapped out the kingpin that was sticking up with something thinner that would fit through the hole on the trailer arm’s hole (that would normally connect to the part that mounts on a bike’s rear axle). Looked pretty simple and slick. If I can find the pictures again I’ll post them.

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Yep I was picturing this earlier but I thought it was a @rafaelinmissouri early prototype.

Found it

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lol.
funny to think how much my towing capability came up from right there!!!

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Nice, I like that setup. Similar to the one I saw but even nicer and easier with off the shelf stuff (except for that mega riser pad). I should try doing something like this to tow my smallest son around in his bike trailer

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Yep, I got another little one on the way so I’ll be paying attention.

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Will 11” wide mob grip tape be wide enough to fully cover a lacroix jaws/naz/LS deck?

My unit is from a few months ago (rec’d in Jan. 2022) so not sure what Firmware is flashed.

Thx @jaykup and @b264. I’m sure I’ll be back on here in a day or so w some queries. Ngl, this is somewhat intimidating even after building several batteries. Here’s to not bricking my controller :crossed_fingers:

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Nice. So do I get a piece of aluminum and drill 4 holes with my hand drill (just pick up a cobalt or hardened steel drill bit from a hardware store?) for the truck then on the other end I find a way to mount the bike-side connector for trailers? Perhaps using some thick bolts. Just need to find a way to rotate it 90deg. I’m thinking of using two corner brackets with a gap in the middle for the hitch to go in.

What kind of dimensions should I get for the aluminum? 1/2in thick. 4inch wide (width of a baseplate) 1ft long? No idea where to buy it form in Canada :joy:

Looks like I can also get it shipped from aliex. Do you think 5mm is too thin?

Can anyone compare 7075 over 6061 aluminum?

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Cobalt is what you want. Could be purchased online or in person, in some cases online is cheaper.

7075 is unnecessary cost. Use slightly thicker 6061 if you need the strength.

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Hi all

When I manually roll my board slowly back and forth, the rear truck assembly seems to vibrate?
It feels like something is wrong but I don’t know what. Any suggestions?

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Yeah, pretty much. You can go as simple or as elaborate as you feel comfortable. Cobalt drill bits are a nice upgrade over the cheaper carbon steel ones, and will last much longer. I’ve got a nice set from 1/16 to 1/2 in 1/64" increments that I bought from Drill America on amazon, and it’s been great so far.

I think 1/2" thick is significant overkill. 1/4" or even 3/16" should be plenty strong (the trailer shouldn’t be exerting much downward force if it’s balanced right). 4" wide also seems a bit excessive, all the baseplates I’ve seen are closer to 2" wide, not 4".

https://www.metalpros.com/ looks good.
Aluminum Flat Bar 6061 | Metal Supermarkets too.

6061 is pretty strong and very cheap. 7075 is stronger, but more expensive. Go for 6061.

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Cobalt is unnecessary for aluminium. A regular HSS drill bit works fiiiiine. Alu is soft as.

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