I stepped away for 30 seconds and my board fell off the desk and all the sensor wires were torn. should I just tape of the ends on the motor side so my board is def usable tomorrow to go to the store, or take the wheels and motors off to use this as a reason to switch to the new motors early?
Part of it fell on my dog but thankfully sheās unharmed. She might have a few bruises but that is it.
Update: looks like they all failed where they were spliced. I guess I shouldnt be surprised given how hard it was to splice 26awg wire to begin with. It didnāt fail until now though so good enough ?
I canāt tell while riding but on the bench it does it, I was told to bump up the ntc to 100k since Flipsky motors tend to have an issue with that since mine is currently on 10k or something because the motors hit a certain temp and it cuts off the current so it can cool down but Iām unsure if I wanna experiment that
Im suspicious, if itās bench only behavior it is just vesc gremlins that prevent proper bench testing. All my builds, current and past, will rev up on the bench then one or the other motor will coast to a stop and chug a little at 0rpm or close to it. It isnāt a problem and doesnāt indicate a problem. It is why having a dyno is so helpful for diagnosing faults and vesc issues - without resistance current control doesnāt work well on the bench - just gets up to speed then fades off
I decided to switch to the new motors and I regret it. Stupid set screw got stuck and made me waste time getting it out. So i only have 1 new motor on the board and with the proper connector on it.
It was a pain to get the pulley on too since SKP motors have long shafts. I donāt need the length but im sure it is better to have it than for it to be too short
If it was possible I would test it on a dyno, unfortunately itās my first time dealing with a dual setup since it was originally a single so Iām not sure if this type of behavior is normal for people with dual setups or maybe somethingās up with mine, I donāt feel any difference when riding. It runs perfectly, Iām just a little concerned if Iām ruining the VESC or motor if that one motor fades out as Iām going and itās just basically rolling from the velocity and actually not doing anything
Valid concerns and i had the same when i was first exploring vesc before i found the forums. Its not a problem but is a part if why collaboration on eskate diy is so helpful and important: you cant bench test reliably and if you fault it is a fall possibly.
Post up screenshots of your settings for people to critique. Unfortunately there are quite a few default settings that should be changed to make things a bit safer and more reliable but i just got my coffee and canāt rattle them off the top . Need a sec
Thanks that makes sense. I donāt think keeping some headroom under 300A 20S will be hard, and I donāt think itās an exaggerated motor current rating like their other VESCs either.
I think it makes sense to me because they are very different to the ones that fail or failed so much. Either way I can contribute some info and its cheap.
I know Iāve gotten quite a bit of help already but is anyone familiar with remotes and vesc?
I want to use multiple and different vescs. Connecting over can is dangerous and not possible. Can I wire receiver uart output (TX?) to multiple vescs and the input for telemetry of just one vesc to the receiver? Or can I put ppm al in parallel?
Dangerous because I have seen two instances of a VESC dieing and destroying another connected only over can. And it might not be an option if using different VESCs front - back is an issue.
I was hoping the fact that uart had separate tx and rx meant I was in luck. I definitely saw something about splitting receiver inputs to multiple VESCs somewhere.
But actually I think I can use the dual VESC ppm mode for one front and one back and connect just left - right over can.
Iām a newbie putting together a 4WD liked by CAN, in my case linking two dual VESCs front/back that each have an internal L/R CAN.
Iām powering both dual VESCs up at the same time with a loop key at the battery.
So far I made/tested a cable to run the length of the board. It seemed to connect OK and see all four VESCs, but Iām still waiting on getting some parts before I can get it rolling / test all the motors together.
Iād be curious about these times it went wrong to see if I can avoid problems as much as possible.
Is this damage possible even just linking the two CAN H & L data wires and leaving out the 5V/GND?
Now Iām thinking maybe I should try the split PPM setup.
I couldnt find what I was thinking of, but did have this. Could just be a spintend thing, could be not much damage. But in my case Iām using a Spintend anyway. I wonder if fuses, diodes or tvs diodes could make it really safe.
edit: @wpt_board
sorry often the reply thing doesnt show up
Thanks for the link - my build is using 2x Flipsky dual 75100 so not the most reputable ESCs
From the pics it does look like the full 4 connector CAN was shared in that case, I wonder if the same sort of blow up can happen from just the data lines being connected.
Do not connect the 5v and gnd between vesc. Just canh and canl. Unless it requires it (stupid lack of following the standards lol) Bad thing can happen and kill the lv of the vescs. The 5v and gnd are an output and not an input.
Also, most vesc have a procedure or at least order of operations that needs to be maintained that is not universal between different devices to safely. Itās partly because can implementation for most vesc are not fully to standard and partly that the 5v is shared for other uses on the controller.
If you donāt have a process already established like the one for the d100s or skp solos - take note of how you have done it successfully and make sure to follow the same process (like power it on first then plug in can) and reverse the process when disconnecting. Might not be a big deal but could risk bricking the vesc or can chip if done wrong. Might not happen every time either so just something to keep n mind.
Interesting, so connecting the CAN between the front/back after power up is safer? Thatās doable since I have the cable as two pieces with a locking JST connector inside the battery box.
And thanks for the advice @Pecos - I currently have it set up that way, just HL connected since I was copying the existing CAN setup this board had initially which only had those two wires between two VESCs
The controller doesnāt have to be turn on, just make sure the power cables are connected FIRST before plugging anything in the CAN ports. But doing it this way will prevent you from using a loop key for your build I think.
I see - yeah after your post I was picturing turning on both controllers together with the loop key and then connect the two sides of the CAN cable together after that if thatās safer than turning it on with the CAN cable already linked, which I was previously thinking.
should I just tape of the ends on the motor side so my board is def usable tomorrow to go to the store, or take the wheels and motors off to use this as a reason to switch to the new motors early?
. Need a sec