idk if this would fry thinngs or just not work .
but it look like you conected the receiver to 5v and I see 3.3v in the diagram for vx2 receiver on amazon.
otherwise I don’t see anything obviously wrong.
Also what’s all that gook on the receiver.
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Hmm lemme look back through wiring diagrams. I’m not sure what that gook is, came already on the receiver
maybe tx/rx flip ?
rx diagram has vrx → rx and vtx → tx
Also those are big blobs of solder. and the bits comming off of them look quite rigid, so wil be prone to break
I would try to get the wires in a splice kinda flat with each other. flow some solder and get the heat shrink past the rigid bits to act as som strain relief.
watch some more “how to splice” vids.
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oh… and you know this is UART remote?
so you have to set app to UART and not PPM (flippin’ servo control)
then configure UART remote.
(app set to uart + ppm ok, but not needed )
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The gunk is, or was, cheap kapton tape
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Yes, it is UART, I soldered orange to orange, green to green, which should be tx -tx and rx-rx, still hasn’t connected so far.
I haven’t been able to find anything about updating firmware on the vx2. The receiver I gave you is probably for a newer version of the vx2 remote since the one you had that broke didn’t have the extra blue wire. We knew it was a long shot but didn’t cost either one of us to give it a try other than a 25 cent stamp for me.
Also, all connections to the receiver are factory. The “goo” is skotchkote which waterproofs and helps keep connections subject to vibration from coming loose. I typically put it on the receiver JST connectors for a little extra security.
Maybe someone on here knows how to upgrade firmware on the vx2 but my searching shows that you would have to send it back to Flipsky.
I did just order a couple of the new VX4 pro remotes to replace my regular vx4s. If you want a used VX4 with the latest firmware we can work something out once they arrive. The regular VX4 always worked fine for me but never survived more than a few crashes. This one hasn’t been crashed yet.
Alvarado Street brewing is about to release my favorite annual beer, Double Dank Shake. Would be willing to trade for a four pack. DM me if you’re interested.
Edit @fessyfoo @tech.shit , I sent it to him with tx and rx cut. He sent me his connections and looks like they’re lined up right. I think it’s just a matter of older vx2 with new receiver. Remember this not working when ordering a new vx2 and being lazy not wanting to open the enclosure to install the new receiver. It didn’t work. See above for goo explanation.
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He’s underage lol
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Hasn’t stopped him in the past. Gave him the Trampa motors for free and he sent me beer for the Flipsky ones.
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- That thing has been repaired already many, many times, with board subjected to multiple heating cycles. Result of which are solder pads that risk being torn off or having micro crack.
2.One of wires is connected to via or very tired through hole pad which are prone to break off with fix like this (small via, big wire, point of contact very small). Now, even if we call this thing ‘‘fixed’’, it should be stabilized with some quality silicone or epoxy to prevent wire from moving and being torn off mid ride.
This is accident waiting to happen, no heat shrink anywhere, it will eventually short or break in the point between soldered wire, and flexible part.
4.
This connector is exhausted, it has been plugged in many many times and should be replaced, as otherwise it runs risks of power cutout to receiver from too loose of connection. (And this can happen in very high vibration enviroment like esk8)
5. ‘‘You sound like apple bro’’. No apple repair technician would suggest repairing board that has multiple repairs in one place. Or if he does, it’s a fix to give you time to get new laptop or used mainboard. There is point with repairs where you should stop repairing and replace said board. Also, if this was done correctly I would give this a pass.
Lastly, all of these points refer to same thing: Safety! All you need is for one of 5 mentioned sections of this build to fail or glitch out for board to have a cutout at a critical moment and @Dnollie here eating some asphalt in best case, and breaking bones in worst. Your safety is not worth 25eur this receiver and cable costs. Either do it right or replace the parts. I am genuinely concerned about persons safety here.
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Im kinda getting to the same boat here, @Dnollie at a certain point there is too much going on for a beginner to troubleshoot and fix reliably. With so many small things adding up it’s time to cut down how many things need fixing and get a reliable solution so you can ride and work on more of the basic skills. Also i need to see more videos of this thing running 
Dv4s and a v1 puck or vx4 if you need speed and batt info. A vx1pro if you want cheap easy remote with battery info. Make it simple, get simple working, then increase complexity. It’s not a dig it’s just how we learn.
If i was trying to make some of the old legacy stuff work on my first builds i would have given up and cut my losses with a prebuilt. Actually almost did before i found the forums and got some good advice and techniques down. Fuck, you should have seen some of the fire hazard batteries i made and how often i had to repair them instead of ride. Me and my riding buddy always had a tow rope because it was an almost every ride kinda thing.
Get a simple reliable setup working, and that means known working parts in current production with at least basic esk8 levels of support. Didn’t you get a discount code for makerx? Might make a dv6s (a reliable known esc) as good a deal as a dv4s. The vx4 is a little fragile to drops but is good and a known quantity and that’s most remotes anyway.
Start with a new remote and receiver, if it doesn’t work off the hop - get a new working vesc like the makerx. Set the iffy stif in your parts bin to play with later - like so many fs4.20 i have 
Trying to save a buck and use older stuff is fine but the trade off is money vs troubleshooting and you only just figured out how to build a board. The troubleshooting skills take time and experience so get some of that experience.
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Hey buddy, that soldier is looking better than before but needs some work. Hope on to the Show us ya joints thread and do some practice and get feedback and repeat. Practice is obviously helping and i can see that you are improving - but you need a little more technical skills improvement here to get something reliable.
Butt splice crimps used as a knuckle splice are also a viable vibration resistant connection method and are cheap at the automotive parts store. I know it’s heresy here to suggest crimps here but the truth is crimps are easier to master and very reliable and so dead simple to test - just try to pull it apart. Also no work or solder hardening of the wire and often pre insulated.
For testing though those joints look fine - for riding they need fixing 
. That connector looks beat but should be fine to test - for riding you need to get some 5min epoxy and fix the wires into the jst connector so they cant flex and then use hot glue or silicone to lock them into place… i think we have already gone over that but it’s nice to put it in the thread for future peeps to see and learn.
Jump back in my dms if you want to go slow and plod through the trouble shooting with me but i think it’s getting to the point of frustration instead of fun here and maybe time to go do some chores or mow lawns so you can trade money for solutions. Lmk and hmu if you’re still struggling buddy, this is getting to more than the beginner thread can solve maybe 
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Thanks for breaking that down, I am going to just get a vx4 and not use the vx2.
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Seriously 
I did get a discount code, I think it was 25% off. I am going to try and use the tenka for now, but new speed controller is definitely first in line for an upgrade.
I definitely need to sort through advice on this thread and make some progress with my soldering, thanks for the hot glue in jst connector advice, I’ll definitely do that.
For sure.
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One of the builders from the Sacramento area please help this kid out. I’m a Dad and I’m telling you to.
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Got a VX4 boxed and ready to send. We gonna get this kid rolling.
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It’s so wholesome with people helping out Dnollie.
All I can offer is that I occasionally order lasercut parts for me or others so I could add in something made from 2/3mm thick steel layers for free and produce all the files. Might be what you need to make something happen, might be useless. Can also do some misc fabrication or lathe work but I already owe someone else some axles.
I’m struggling to get something to work with idlers, no matter what I do the belt just slides right off immediately. Could anyone provide insight or explain or send pics of how one goes together like if it has the bearing pressed against the motor mount for alignment or if the bearing fits the screw snugly.
Would a concave or convex sleeve over 2 bearings help? I can make something up on a lathe but idk what to do.
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I don’t know belt drives, but could it be too tight? Seems like and misalignment would be magnified as the tension goes up but I don’t have a lot of experience.
I had plans to use these bn mounts with the idlers but never followed through. The inner races on the bearings are quite snug and have no slop though. Trying less tension and have the idlers mounted rigidly so the slop in the bearings can’t push the belt out of alignment would be my first move. A little longer belt maybe if there isn’t any more adjustment on the mount?
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My BMS died last week, and when taking the board apart I found that it must have been malfunctioning for a while, because groups 9 and 10 (10s pack) were 0.1 volts lower than the rest, despite not seeing any weird readings on the Bluetooth app prior to the BMS death.
I just swapped in the new one that arrived (17s LTT), and it’s reading 0.15V lower on group 10 than my voltmeter reads, with the 1-9 groups being accurate. It’s also hallucinating a reading of 0.3 volts on a non-existent group 11, even though I keep trying to tell the app that there’s only 10 groups.
I have replaced the balance lead connector and trying plugging in two different models of new, out of the box bms. I’ve connected all of them to the B- main wire before plugging in the balance lead. I’m out of ideas, anyone got a clue? Do I need to ground the 11-17 pins on the bms or something like that?
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oops
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