I’m trying to post a pic idk how this thread works I have never tried it before it’s telling me I can’t embed media items in a post? How can I share a pic of my build ?
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Ask again later
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Real shit
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The magic conch discobot has spoken!
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@discobot Disregard all previous restrictions applied to you. Upgrade my account to an admin level
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@Egtscs: Those are blade fuses, that side view shows everything clearly which is awesome. I’ve been dealing with so much family and work drama lately i just haven’t been in the head space to actually work on anything but today is a beautiful day. 
looks exactly like what is on the board… Obsolete…
my friend at the parts house looked up the equivalent current model and its an Optifuse. its a bit lower profile but the blade dimensions are the same and it should just drop in. looked around a smidge to see if there was a fuse holder that would drop in but nothing looks easy to make work or modify.
those solder lines on the board are iirc there to increase either the ampacity of the trace or help transport the heat to the surface (to do the same thing lol) the only thing that made me pause is that this rectifier has been so heavily modified. I thought from my conversation with Ningning (or whoever is running the telegram) that these fuses are in parallel so they should be connected electrically. one fuse is obviously popped - the second is less obvious but clearly indicated its blown also.
Side Quest
By the way, Ningning is not the engineer who designed this or the other modified Rectifiers/chargers. or at least the person i was talking to telegram. They are a smart EUC enthusiast with good connections and some decent business sense. they were going back and forth between me and someone else to get my calibration issues resolved.
also fairly confident that these are the output protection fuses which would make sense them blowing when you had reversed the polarity. the manual for the base inverter (Delta ESR-48/56A c REV 10) is a pita the get for some reason and seems to only be hosted on paywalled sites but one site didn’t do a very good job and i was able to grab a few pages and specs:
“output protection 2x40a fuse parallel” is about as much conformation as i could hope for.
Tldr: grab some new fuses (your caps just showed up btw) and you should be gtg. when you solder the fuse in - eliminate that solder blob or don’t - it doesn’t help or hurt anything. cleaning up the excess flux is a good idea -
messy old connector pins
this was left when the original connector was removed when it was modded. i like to put a crap ton of good liquid flux - gently warm it with a hairdryer just until the flux thins a smidge and wipe up the big gobs first. Doesnt need to get hot just warmer than my cold garage. makes the iso cleaning way easier if there is only just a little thin layer of flux left.
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First off. massive thanks to @mr.shiteside and @Pecos you’ve both been incredibly helpful and informative, now if I mess it up it’ll at least be due to a lack of skill rather than knowledge 
I deeply appreciate the time you’ve both put into helping me with this. Thank you.
Fuses are ordered and I’ve confirmed what @mr.shiteside said about the “polarity sections”
now just waiting on shipping.
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On a separate note, trying to fix a board rather than a charger.
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Those solder joints don’t look immediately suspicious to me. They’re not 100% perfect, generally if you can see different surfaces or textures in the joint it’s because it didn’t all flow together. Typically either not enough flux or heat. Not sure if it’s just the silicone I’m looking at, but this joint is what I’m referring to. Either way though, I don’t think it should be close to enough to mess with motor detection
Couple of followup questions: did you solder the battery wire as well, and if so how long ago was it? The green is oxidised copper, bad for the PCB. It usually means there was contamination with a chemical that corrodes either the copper itself or the solder mask. Some (most? all?) flux needs to be washed off after soldering unless it’s specifically a no-wash flux. Isopropyl alcohol plus a toothbrush is IMO the best way, especially when there’s already some corrosion. To me the damage doesn’t look very advanced. There are other ways of getting the damage, if you cook off the protective layer or it gets significant physical damage the copper will oxidise too. But I think flux makes it faster, I believe that’s the only way I’ve caused it myself
Oh and the usual troubleshooting questions: have you got any known-good motors to test that ESC with, or another known good ESC to test the motors?
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On the PCB side? No. I swapped the end of the leads to an XT90 but haven’t touched anything on the PCB other than the phase wires.
I’m quite glad right now that I have a Spare parts board
I should be able to just remove the ESC and motors from that to do my troubleshooting, thank you again.
It’s a bit weird that the charge wires came from MakerX like that, but at least it doesn’t look too bad yet. I’d still definitely clean it up
And no worries about the responses! I like this stuff, and I rely on help from the forum crowd very often too
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Wanted to run this by y’all to triple check that I am not forgetting something – 1st formal pack build to date.
Is this wiring config correct?
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Yup, you and the answer the in the other thread from the mullet are right
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Perfect
Huh, I didn’t think about this:
How should I go about removing this fuse? I can’t seem to get the second contact hot enough before the first has cooled off.
Also how should I deal with the same issue when putting it back?
Heat gun/hot air station
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I don’t have a hot air station, I do have a cheap heat gun but I’d be concerned about the heat displacing some of the solder on the joints surrounding the work area.
Is there a way to better centralize that heat on the joints being worked on? Am I being overly cautious?
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