Solder sucker would be my first port of call, followed by maybe copper wick if you can’t get a sucker. Heat up one side, yoink the solder off, rinse repeat
Edit: I do actually mean to repeat it a few times. You won’t get all the solder off on the first go round and pulling on the fuse might just tear up the PCB. Alternate sides and do each a few times
ive had this for awhile it probably isnt the best but i could afford it
https://www.amazon.com/BACOENG-Soldering-Station-Improved-Version/dp/B07BRWY427
I have removed fuses like this by elevating the board upside down, and using needle nose vicegrips, as a clamping hanging weight, then two soldering irons, one on each tab, and it drops right out.
I have found a pair of welding gloves at my solder station are worth their weight in gold
I think getting enough heat in both sides at the same time is the hard part.
Maybe a wide tip if you have one too
Agreed, admittedly I think this might be easier with:
I think my brother has one I could ask to borrow.
I’ll try the @SternWake method next.
What flavour of soldering iron are you using, and could you post a pic of the tip? With reasonable technique and iron I’d expect more of a result than that
It looks like the solder wasn’t flowing very well so it couldn’t be removed effectively. More flux is almost always good and it’s definitely worth trying here (old solder joints oxidise, the oxide is harder to melt and remove, the flux removes oxidation). Failing that, if the iron tip isn’t clean and in good condition it won’t transfer heat well. You may also actually need to add a little solder, fresh stuff can help with getting it going
And yup the two irons or wide tip suggestions sounds good to me too. As a last resort you could turn up the temperature on the iron, but that’s not ideal and more likely to damage the board
This is super secret soldering tech. 2 irons is a superpower.
KSGER T12
I’ve been switching out between these 2, the larger head seems to grab more solder at once with the wick but the smaller tip seems to reach places that the larger can’t and will grab more solder off after the large tip has stopped grabbing any. (Also upon closer inspection I might benefit from a new angled chisel tip, mine is getting a bit old.)
get a flat tip like the C4 tip, it’s got more thermal mass at the tip to conduct to the solder joints better. I like them for heating up removal components just like this.
something looking like this:
I would use the larger tip at the 45, but I would clean it
It looks super dirty which will absolutely lead to you having a hard time
I would also check out your tip offset to make sure the tip is at the temp you want
Something like that I would put normally in the low teens for offset
Also it might seem counter intuitive but if you have some liquid flux (not paste) put a little bit on the solder joint, it will help the previous solder wick up to the iron
Heard. T12-C4 tip is on the way. (Arriving tomorrow)
Can you elaborate? I’m not sure what “the 45” refers to here. (Edit: are you referring to the 45 degree angle that the chisel tip has?)
Both these tips get cleaned with a brass sponge after each solder joint.
Is there another way to clean them that I should try?
I haven’t tried a regular wet sponge.
I’m also not sure what this means, can you elaborate on what you mean in choosing a number for “offset”?
Yes, sorry my wording was bad I was at work
I use brass sponge for right after I heat it up. Water sponge for everything else.
Not a wet sponge, but a damp one so soak it up and wring it out.
Offset for soldering irons is used to fine tune the actual tip temp. The number shown on your power unit is normally still a bit off, based on the tip size etc.
For the big 45 degree chisel tip I normally put my offset at around 11deg to 14deg.
Rule of thumb for me is Turn it up for the bigger tips, turn it down for the smaller ones. But that is not always the case.
I measure all my tips with an ir temp gun when they are fresh outta the box and just keep a list of offset temps/tips
Okay gotcha, thank you for the explanation since I was entirely unaware of this.
I believe my iron uses preset levels of offset based on what tip you select in the menu, I’m assuming that’s why I didn’t encounter an individual offset setting in the manual.
Yep looking now at the manual it looks like that’s how it does it.
I couldn’t find it before but that is something to omit then.
But I would realllllyyyyyy check out a damp sponge. Or at least take a paper towel and get it wet and squeeze it into a ball and use that.
Alright, after quite a bit of fuss I was able to get the old fuses out.
It seems the leads have been clipped on the old fuses, I should probably do the same for the new ones right?
No need to clip them unless the board has a clearance issue where it’s mounted. More metal = more theremal mass = better current carrying capability.
Doesn’t matter much for a fuse though.
If there is space you should solder on a fuse holder or socket so the next time one blows it’s easily replaceable.
Yeah, what TS said. It seems extremely unlikely there’s room for a fuse holder but if there is then why not.
I also assume they wouldn’t clip them if they didn’t have to, so there’s probably not enough space behind. Reassemble the PCB into the enclosure, then poke the fuses through the holes and see if they have space. If you are trimming them, I’d go slowly so you don’t overdo it
