So much is going to be preference. I settled on 35/45 front and im planning on going back to it to mess around and get it a little bit more carvey. Imho go conservative and keep it tight in the rear for stability and put some miles down range.
Put 2-300 miles in (or whatever makes you feel like you’ve got a good feeling for how it handles) and see if it’s comfortable and stable for you, then adjust one angle at a time and feel it out. It will get dialed faster imho if you make steady progress but give yourself a chance to hit all your conditions. Railway crossings are what im struggling with, not quite enough turn in my setup but it is rock steady even very loose on my bushings so i want to open it up a bit more.
So I think I might have killed a stormcore, motor, or both. Not sure. I ran detection then swapped which motor was on what side and ran it again. When I did it the first time (first photo) both motors spun. Then when I ran it the second time (second photo) only one motor spun up. Any advice on what might be wrong or what I can do to fix it?
Ok, thank you. Do you think there could be anything wrong with the VESC too or really just the motor. I opened it up and people noticed it looked repaired. Posted it here. Stormcore problem Diagnosis?
Checked motor resistance too and the one motor has one phase that is showing no connection to the other phases (showing same thing as the probes not touching anything). Checked the other motor and they’re all good (displays 0 K ohms resistance)
Anyone know if this is a good option from amazon? Flipsky Electric Speed Controller for Skateboard FSESC6.7 70A Base on ESC6.6 with Aluminum Anodized Heat Sink
Double check to make sure you are buying from amazon and get their return policy. Some of the sellers are selling factory rejects for cheap. Inspect and test the units asap incase it’s a dud or fails detection. Also derate them 10% or so as the specs are kinda wishful thinking afaik. A red flag would be if the price is lower than on the flipsky website for the same product. I just bought a bunch of flipskys on here for $20 each so if you want to post a WTB for something used but works well you might do better and get something higher quality in your budget. Saw some cheap foc boxes a while ago.
I’m back! Kinda went quiet on my first build for a while because I was waiting on a boardnamics order and had lots going on for the holidays. Anyways, I now have a mostly functional board but I fucked up trying to solder the makerx sensor cables directly to the flipsky ones, which were already barely long enough to reach inside my enclosure. I’m currently waiting on an amazon order for a 6-pin weather resistant cable so I can do things properly but I’m mostly posting asking for a couple pieces of advice:
Omni Esk8 Electric Skateboard 3K Carbon Fiber Deck for DIY Rides12s4p P42A Battery Pack | Transparent Series — MBoards this is the deck+enclosure and the 12s4p I’m using. My main concerns are that I have neoprene foam lining the bottom of the deck cover and the bed of the enclosure, and when I screw on the cover the neoprene foam presses into the battery, enough so that when I unscrew the lid it pops up pretty good, naturally I’m a bit concerned about if this will be putting stress on the batteries and if that’s safe.
If the above problem ends up actually being a problem I feel like I’m kinda just going to have a mental breakdown honestly I’m an uncountable amount of times I thought I finally was about to have a working board, about 4 months going recluse because I didn’t have a convenient form of transportation, and 2.5K in the hole with this thing and I kept pursuing it because distrust w/ Meepo after two of their battery packs broke on me bcs of shitty contact welds in the span of a couple months and lost cost fallacy once I started. Do I just buy a prebuilt now if this doesn’t work? The battery situation has me kinda sketched out honestly and I just don’t know what to do at this point, and even if I do wanna get a decent commute prebuilt my options feel really slim given that whatever it is needs to be weather resistant enough for Portland.
That deck has zero flex, id send it. I think with the pcb mount battery it made it a smidge thick but the neoprene will compress over time and it shouldn’t do anything bad as it won’t be moving AT ALL. As long as it is just the neoprene you can probably just get thinner adhesive neoprene for the deck side and swap it out if it bothers you long term or is keeping the lid from sealing well.
Sorry diy is being a pain, im struggling with my second from scratch build and the struggle is real. There are no standards lol. You should start a build thread and show off, sounds like a good project.
Lol, I might. May make things go slightly better, I suppose I should finally settle on a name then. Anyways, right now I have it hot glued to the neoprene in the bed, the radiator on the bottom adds about as much thickness as the PCB, but with the neoprene foam this actually leaves the battery hanging over the neoprene by about 1mm, I’ve closed the gap with a couple pieces of scrap neoprene. But even then, it rises past the edge of the enclosure at the center where the lid curves down.
Attaching some pics of the build at present and the radiator+battery positioning, advance apologies for the abhorrent application of silicone sealant and hot glue. I plan to get things a bit neater once I solder the aforementioned data cable onto the motors, currently they make it a huge pain to keep things organized.
