If you don’t paint it or anything, you’ll be lucky if it looks that clean down the line.
I’d personally advise against stainless steel. It’s a massive pain to work with and is very heavy. use bigger/thicker aluminum if you’re worried about strength.
Just my $.02
Stainless steel sucks unless you’re using it for an eating utensil or a counter/sink in a kitchen
My $0.02
So given that mild welded steel from metal supermarkets will look bad since I don’t plan to paint it and stainless steel sucks, will aluminium look better down the line if I don’t do anything to it?
In that case I’m considering this which is close in $ to that welded steel above
Aluminum can be left unpainted and it will be fine. Steel needs to be painted, but honestly you could take the money you save going for steel over aluminum and pay yourself for time and materials to paint it. Just some rattle cans of primer and paint would do it, it doesn’t have to be fancy.
Stainless is expensive and heavy, not worth.
Mild steel is just as heavy as stainless, but much cheaper.
Aluminum is somewhere in the middle price wise, lighter, but not quite as strong. (It would probably be fine though, .095 wall is pretty sturdy.)
The way i see it:
so yeah, id probably go with 1/8" wall aluminum tubing (.095 is probably also fine). Im quite confident that will be strong enough, and i think aluminum is definitely the right material for this application.
Hey, I was wondering if I could get some help with a problem I’m having. I just finished the input wizard and setting everything up with vesctool for my DIY build, but only one motor spins up when I give it throttle. Thank you!
I am also running into an ABS overcurrent fault, if anyone know how to help fix that I would be super thankful. Home Stretch!
Are you aiming to have a metallic finish, and want something easy to weld?
You could sand the steel to give it a even finish, then clear coat to prevent rust.
That kit looks good.
Do they give those tires a speed rating?
The large diameter is a good move.
I think that makes a big difference in how it moves.
The connection point looks similar to what I have on the Burley Bee, which is the better connection I used.
Good luck dude!!!
I don’t plan on doing any welding, so I guess metallic. I just don’t want it to rust?
I’ve been using stainless hardware on all of my boards and have yet to have an issue, but I’m asking for punishment 
No speed rating but the 20"high quality alloy wheels with stainless steel spokes with kenda tires seem like standard bike tires you’d have on a kids bike?
Then I would also vote for aluminum 
make sure you write settings to both sides of the ESC, check all your phase wire and sensor connections and make sure nothing is disconnecting.
I think there is some confusion around stainless steel counter/sink and stainless steel countersink.
I would not add those… More parts… More issues…
Probably loud…
But for me it’s fairly easy to unhook the trailer and Lower the arm to the ground even if the kids are in there.
So I personally don’t see the need.
Your situation may be different…
Yep that was the problem, thanks! I was also wondering if 54v is an acceptable cutoff for a 16s battery? Just double checking lol.
Hey thanks, I probably should have known a thread existed already lol.
