Thanks i might just order some of these but this still doesn’t help with the wiring to the BMS, would I need 2 separate bmses?
Put the balance wires in parallel before sending them to the BMS (and balance the packs before making the connection).
So the 2 ground wires merge into 1 and go to the BMS ground. The 2 wires for cell 1A and 1B merge and go to the next pin up on the BMS, etc etc etc.
If you force each pair of cells to be the same voltage by connecting them, the BMS can treat them as one cell.
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Okay that’s what i needed to know thanks! 
Is this weird or am I just new:
So im still learning vesc tools and working with this build on a bench power supply. The video shows when i tap the throttle it will sometimes go full throttle for a full second or two. It it jus because it on the bench and unloaded or do i need to modify some settings in vesc tool?
Still can’t figure out how to get my bluetooth module working but i did get the hoyte puck working, just switched back the to ubox remote for the telemetry and light control. It didn’t seem to do this with the hoyte but the hoyte is ppm and this one is nrf.
weird
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Weird isn’t good, my power supply is only 10a and may not be very clean. Im a slap together a 12s battery real quick and dirty and see if i cant clean up my wiring to eliminate any interference and retest it tomorrow.
Hopefully it isn’t Ubox shenanigans and i can eliminate some more possibilities. I really don’t want to buy another vesc.
Any suggestions on a can bluetooth module or is that not a thing?
First thing is I would not ride a remote acting like that, not even for a test ride. If you don’t figure out why this is happening then it’s probably time to switch out the remote with a Z.Mote
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Totally not going on a ride with this, its acting like it is losing signal but reacting the absolute worst way. It wasn’t doing this when it was setup via its integrated interface and pairing, it only started happening after using the vesc tool wizard and shows up as a vesc remote. Not necessarily a scientific approach, im just starting to figure out vesc tools so ya, need to eliminate variables now and reproduce it reliably so i can eliminate it.
The puck ive got worked great and felt really smooth and responsive, ill look at the zmote. Looks like a great remote
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is that the spintend remote? those are garbage.
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This is what im suspecting, i got it and the ubox a year ago before that really shook out and haven’t gotten to my build because of injuries and life in general until now. Now I have time to dig into it again.
I’ll update when i get my bench cleaned and a proper battery in it but the more I search, the more i think ill just pass on the remote- i waned the extra functionality of the lights and break lights as i do mostly night riding but not at the expense of poor failure modes or risking equipment causing an injury.
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if you can tolerate the joystick design, the bkb voyager is surprisingly robust, and you still get all the lighting features
ive dropped/crashed with mine so much that it sounds like a fuckin maraca, but it’s never cut out on me
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in the iOS vesc tool, when connected to a stormcore, does the RT Data tab display total motor current, or just the motor current for the “side” of the ESC you’re connected to?
It’s 2023.
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for vesctool, its always per side
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Pro tip: If your board feels extremely under powered, make sure the puck hasn’t been switched to the lowest speed setting… LOL
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Actually, for the record, looks like it’s the combined number for Stormcores. Either that or my Stormcore is easily able to push 190 phase amps per side lol
Pro tip: If your board feels extremely under powered, make sure it doesn’t say Evolve on the deck
Thank you for your help @MysticalDork, I requested a quote from metalpros as you suggested for 6061 flat bar and it looks to be only about $15. I am now planning to build a trailer and I could use some more help.
I’m planning to make it using this DIY kit Bike Trailer | Cargo & Child Bike Trailers | DIY Cargo Bike Trailer…. For this, I will need to order square tubing. Their kit is designed for a max of 150lbs but I will be carrying sometimes 200lbs (an adult) so they suggest steel for extra heavy loads.
In doing so, I’m thinking of getting 5 of these SQ TUBE,304SS,1 OD SQ X 7/8 ID SQ,6 FT https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/SQ-TUBE%2C304SS%2C1-OD-SQ-X-7-8-ID-SQ%2C6-FT/p/WWG4YUJ5?analytics=cart. This will be cut to 4 feet x3, 2 feet x5, 5 feet x1 (for hitch). (2 feet x1 and 1 feet x1 extra). So I’ll be making a 2’ x 4’ trailer. It should be enough for someone to sit with legs fully flat forwards.
Then I will probably get a sheet of plywood to make the floor and put the top half of a desk chair or lawn chair screwed/bolted on top, to keep it lightweight because it’s already quite heavy altogether.
Altogether, I’m looking at a cost of:
- diy trailer kit $200
- 5 6ft steel tubes $315
- plywood for the base $40
- aluminum bar for skateboard adapter $15
- TOTAL: $CAD 570+ and I’ll need to get a chair and prob some screws, brackets, etc
@rafaelinmissouri I figured I would ask you too since you have a trailer to carry people. Does that sound reasonable for a DIY trailer to carry an adult?
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Metal Supermarket has steel tube for much cheaper than Grainger, haven’t checked shipping but 5x 6ft steel tubes comes to $109. If you live in a city with any sort of industry you may also be able to find a metals supplier locally that would save you shipping.
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