Halp!! can’t connect my vesc app to ubox v2 75v/100a. this is a new build so I want to go in and get all my parameters setup but i cant get the dam thing to connect or find anything online that has solved my issues yet. google foo is weak
I have the ubox remote and have been able to pair that and access some of the settings. but i want to get on the vesc app so i can get test mess with some things but the ui is very limited.
i tried connecting to my pc via a usb cable and it cant auto connect. i get an error to check if the vesc is on and cable connected. i have multiple verified good usb c cable that connects data and power and it works on other devices (laptop, phone, camera) for data transfer and such but when i use any of them on the ubox windows shoots and error saying bad drivers. installed a virtual cdm driver (VCP and D2XX) as this was an old fix in an old thread on the vesc forums to fix connection issues with windows 10 but im not familiar enough to know if its the right fix as all the old links are dead or for windows 7-8 drivers. idk? i can get the vesc software to connect to other esc’s so i think my software is good there but idk
i also tried to connect to the ubox via the app (ios) with no luck. i have tried detecting is with the native bluetooth on the ubox, thought im not sure if this one has that or if I’m just crazy thinking it does as ive never gotten it to connect or detected an available connection. i tried using the provided external blue tooth module from spintend… same nothing burger - it has a blue indicator led on it that flashes but no connection via the app or Bluetooth on my pc. i also have an old bkb Bluetooth module (V1) but im not sure if it is can or uart and the board pin out on it isn’t labeled so i may have killed it trying to plug it in.
i also have a metr pro v1 uart that i have tried to connect to the ubox with no success but i believe there is something i read a long time ago saying that no only are the uart metrpro v1 kinda finicky but they also wont work on a ubox fsr…
side note: the 12v outputs from the ubox dont seem to work, there is a 12v light, horn, and break that i should be able to trigger with the ubox remote but i test no output voltage when i mess with it…
Mashed all the buttons, no change i can see just to put the cable to rest i have two different ones ordered to try. I just feel like it shouldn’t be this hard, maybe i burned up the uart chip? Repairing that would be quite a bit beyond what I’m currently comfortable doing.
Got in!!! I grabbed 4 different cables from it at my work and non worked, then i got a super short (6”) cable and it works!!! NonShielded cable issue? Idk, now to turn on the bluetooth ffs
If the nose of the deck is lower then you’ll have more grip on acceleration/conering but less on deceleration, it’s very unnerving to have it set up that way and I wouldn’t recommend it
Anybody got a link for wiring 4x 5s lipos into a 10s2p with bms? Tried searching but couldnt find the specific case so figured id post the question here
That’s going to be a lot of balance wires. Typically the 10S2P battery won’t be exposing its balance wires, either. Does it already have an internal BMS?
I think my front end might be slightly higher than my back, or the other way around, and for small differences (less than a cm) it isn’t noticeable.
Some will include a tiny little circuit board bms with them. The replacements I bought for my old pebble watches had them but the OG batteries didn’t since the bms is on the watch pcb.
I don’t have my phone RN to take a photo but the BMS for one I have in front of me is 3mm x 15mm. I think the one for the watch battery was possibly smaller? It isn’t within reach of my desk so I can’t double check though
They are lipo balance lead extensions. But you can cut one end off of them and wire them up to the BMS balance connector — and work on it while it’s not energized — then simply plug them in at the end.
I do not recommend directly soldering on the live balance wires if there’s such an easy alternative.
Also when you have connectors plugged together in the enclosure, use a piece of string or a tiny cable tie to make sure they don’t come undone from vibrations.
just to put the cable to rest i have two different ones ordered to try. I just feel like it shouldn’t be this hard, maybe i burned up the uart chip? Repairing that would be quite a bit beyond what I’m currently comfortable doing.
