Alright, my goal is to extend my sensors by about 120-200mm I have:
If you are going to build more than one or two boards, I’d suggest to buy some crimps and a crimping tool. Really good to be able to make what you need.
I have found the Engineer PA09 pretty good.
I have a similar ratcheting crimp tool that I can’t seem to find on Amazon anymore. I’m just not sure how to crimp to the male side.
You have to get the special male ones that aren’t as easy to find.
Usually the solution is to just use the board-mount male connectors and solder the wires on. Not ideal, but it usually works pretty well.
Remember to add strain relief (silicone, hot glue and/or heat shrink) to make sure everything stays put after soldering.
dang bro, I have a few of those mboards sensor extensions, wish I’d given you them the other day 
What do the different colors (blue vs green) for the Hoyt Puck’s light mode indicate?
By light mode, i mean when the remote is on and connected, and you press the power button once to turn on the lights. I notice that sometimes when i do this the lights are green, but other times they are blue. I’m aware that pressing the button 2x turns the lights blue and disables the remote-- this is not what I’m referring to here.
I looked this up on the product page and tutorial video but couldn’t find an answer.
Blue: ~75-100%
Green: ~50-75%
Yellow: ~25-50%
Red: ~1-25%
Below 10%, remote will flash and vibrate continuously
This info is directly from hoyt
interesting. i saw it was green when the board was charged to 48v, so maybe something’s up with mine.
What?? Puck led only show remote battery %, nothing else
Also make sure you have another connector plugged into it while soldering so the pins don’t get crooked while melty.
Puck says Green rn, but if the BMS app is to be believed, I’m at 48.5v
Which is odd because last night my Puck stayed blue for my whole ride down to ~44v
Why do you have a BMS app for your remote battery?
The lights only indicate the battery life of the remote itself, not the board
Ah. I’m stupid. I glossed over that word. I interpreted the phrase “remote battery” as “board battery” Lol. That makes sense then.
then ur remote battery is ~50-75%, ur board has nothing to do with the puck led colour
Yellow? I don’t think i ever saw yellow lights from the puck? 
Still having problems? The uni1 has to be calibrated on the remote. Another issue is that the pot sticks if it gets damaged in a fall…
Like calibrated in vesc tools? I did via the wizard then reset the control type to “current” and set the vesc2 can stattus message mode to “can_stattus_1
Unit is brand new so no damage at all
I think it’s a hall sensor not a pot but I’ll confirm real quick
