Magnets, how do they work.
No, calibrate from the remote in the settings menu.
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Never thought twice about it… Figured it was a pot, but the throttle does get sticky after a few falls… I rode with mine that way for a while, gave me that “you gonna die!” thrill when I’d forget to slowly release the throttle and just flick it… Finally replaced last month.
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Give me a second to put it back on the bench, had another project take priority but it’s done now so i can refocus:-).
Edit: i may have underestimated my ability to completely destroy a space and may have finally achieved superfund status, a personal best. Glad my wife made me dispose of the 5lbs of mercury I used to keep around… for reasons. Fuckin hell i think I’m a horder, my spirit animal is probably smaug
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What did you replace it with?
Another uni1… They’re pretty cheap, control my lights and brakelight, and never had any signal drop issues… I have gone through several voyagers that I’ve bought and others have given me. 3 people I personally know have reported throttle issues with those going full throttle out of the blue… I actually haven’t had that problem, but I wish they had a Deadman switch. The joystick is too sensitive for me.
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Undervoltage fault after cruising at my geared topspeed of 35mph for a minute or two… It’s happened to me three times now. Luckily I haven’t come off my deck, but the board stays on and I’m able to hit the throttle and continue riding. . When I check my faults it always reads Undervoltage fault Motor 1 though. Does that actually mean that it’s related to motor 1 on ESC A? When I connect to ESC B there’s no fault. I’m running ubox v2 100v at 16s7p p42a with 60A/side battery and 65A/motor on 138kv 65100 bioboard motors… So I’m not pushing limits anywhere I think. I know undervoltage faults usually point to the battery connection to the ESC, but could it be actually related to the 4mm motor connectors I’m using or a bad phase wire bullet joint?
Usually that’s related to the battery voltage. What are your settings on this page?
Motor → General → Advanced
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Yeah that’s fine. Do you have the exact fault message with the data?
I might but I’d have to dig to find it.
It also happens occasionally on the bench, but it’s different because it happens almost immediately after going 95% duty. Here’s one of those.
Click “read” and ensure you’re actually reading the ESC settings and not looking at default numbers. It says it’s communicating in Limited Mode which might mean a version mismatch. Does it give an error on read? If you write a number, does that number you wrote come up next time you connect?
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That’s a screenshot for maybe a month ago. I’m at the point where I’m removing pulleys and I’m either going to resolder all my bullets or my XT90 connectors, so everything’s taken apart right now.
That fault message and those settings seem fundamentally incompatible, methinks something in software wasn’t sound
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I’m thinking long runs at top speed is stressing a weak solder joint somewhere, prob on the XT90
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I don’t know why I said xt90… I actually used AS150s… I realize it was overkill now… Replacing those with an xt90s would be far easier than replacing all my bullets because of the way I have things sealed up. I wish I had a better example of the fault code, but I’ll give the battery connector a go first… Then I’m ordering some 14t/78t pulleys so I can at least crash test dummy this thing under 30mph…
I got my metal from metal supermarkets. Thanks again.
Now I need plywood for the floor. I’ll be drilling into it quite a bit like to mount my chair on top. I’ll need a size of 2’ x 4’ roughly but need to cut that to only 20in wide. I’m considering either
AraucoPly 3/8 inch Sanded Pine Plywood 11/32 inchX4’X8’
or 5/8 inch 4 ftx8 ft Standard Spruce Plywood Tongue & Groove
from home Depot. Those are the only pressure treated plywoods. Though I won’t need 3/4 of that size… The common stuff seems to be seathing plywood but that’s not suitable for exterior use?
Also since the seat is in the back I can’t just put the axle in the middle because then it’s unbalanced. How do I figure out where to put it? Do I first put everything else together before drilling and screwing the middle axle part to the rest of the frame, put my seat on, then have someone sit in it and then adjust the axle so there’s just a slight forward fall to the trailer? Won’t the center of gravity also be dependent on the weight of the passenger?
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That’s what I would probably do.
It will to a certain extent, but it shouldn’t affect things too much.
You could always add some extra holes or some other mechanism so you can adjust the seat position a bit forward and backward to compensate for it.
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Do you have any recommendations for wood? Do I need to look for pressure treated wood so it’s good for exterior use?
I did some digging and it looks like I can also look in the other plywood sections on home depots website. Like ACX plywood is appropriate for exterior use?
Also regardless of what I pick I should coat it in a weather resistant coating?
If you’re expecting it to be regularly exposed to wet weather, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to paint or varnish it for extra water resistance. The main thing about “exterior grade” plywood that makes it exterior grade is the glue, which won’t weaken or dissolve when it gets wet. It won’t prevent the wood from soaking up water and potentially rotting if it’s wet enough for long enough.
Paint/coatings can help, as can proper drainage. You should make a point to put a couple drain holes at the lowest point of the trailer when it’s at rest, so there will be no pooling.
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