The VESC 4 has 2 battery shunts, a DRV8302 gate driver and at the time of it’s release, unoptimized firmware with issues.
The VESC 6 design has 3 phase shunts and a DRV8301 gate driver with external current sense amplifiers
The Stormcore 60D+ has 3 battery shunts, a larger 100 pin STM32F405, two newer DRV8323 gate drivers with internal current sense amps.
The Unity/Stormcore ESCs are really a category of their own compared to VESC 4 or VESC 6 designs from Vedder. The Unity was based off the 2 battery shunt VESC 4 with quite a few changes, and evolved into a much improved design with the Stormcores.
I’d find a piece of metal or paperboard or something to put between the wheel pulley and mount while you tighten the clamp. So they still stay parallel.
The closer those are to parallel, the less skipping and less belt wear and/or problems you will have.
My Parts have arrived and I notices the color of the sensor cables on the motor is mixed around (they also said on their website that it is somehow different but nothing in detail…)
Thank you
and how do I find out if the white one (on my photo where ground/black should be) is temp or ground? Or is there any way to find out where temp/5V/ground are?
There’s a very good chance that red is +5v, black is ground, white is temp, and the other three are the hall sensors. The motor documentation should include that info.
The motors sadly dont come with any documentation as they are being sold as replacement parts for ranger x2 boards and I guess are intended to be used with their “proprietary” hardware/escs.
I found this picture on the internet (ali-seller) selling similar looking hub motors under a different name/brand (maxfind?)
I could not translate the symbols next to the cable description (too few pixels) so I just color coded which symbols look like the other…
Sadly this datasheet describes a round plug and doesnt help me at all. If anyone knows how to get datasheets for such “custom” parts from companies like Backfire pls enlighten me!
I wrote something wrong there… not a round plug but a 5 pin plug (means no temp?)
And I just got an idea: is the temp analog or digital? Could I just measure the resistance on the “temp” pins and look for a change when heating the thing slightly in an oven or something? Or if its digital would it work to apply voltage to the pins and read out on the esc tool if there is data for temperature or something? (worst thing that could happen would just be a broken hal-thing, no? I heard I could just power the motors with the 3pin alone and drive “blind” so the hal doesnt affect that at all.
there is no temp sensor on most hobbywing motors (this one u showed is hobbywing motor)
and the translation for the table on the right side is as follow
Blue | U = empty
Green | V = empty
Yellow | W = empty
Red | HALL"+" = V+
Black | HALL"-" = GND
Yellow | HALL C = HALL C
Blue | HALL B = HALL B
Green | HALL A = HALL A
HALL ABC doesn’t matter the order when u r using vesc, as it is automatically detect and arranged in the vesctool software, so their order doesn’t matter.
in most case, red is always V+ and black is GND, white is temp if it exist but rarely it does. other colours usually correspond to HALL ABC (or 123 if u want)
I’m a Canadian engineering student trying to make a skateboard as a side project, with the plus of having something to commute around campus with. I’m completely new to skateboarding as a whole, so power isn’t really what I’m looking for. I am planning on making a custom carbon fiber longboard deck, probably with a bamboo or maple core.
My goals for this build are:
30-40km range, or more
Top speed of like 22mph
Relatively quiet
Within a budget of around $1200-$1500 CAD (which equates to about 1-1.2k USD), not including the deck.
I’ve been doing some reading but finding sources for parts in Canada seems difficult. I’ve seen advice to start with an enclosure and/or battery, but I’ve also seen suggestions working backwards from my power specs to get a drivetrain sorted and then using a deck that fits. With the ability to make a custom deck, the second seems more reasonable but again, I’ve got no clue where to start.
I’d love some advice on where to start (what to buy first, and where can I source it in Canada?) and what brands to avoid (so far - MBoards, Aliexpress).
Also - Does anybody have a % budget breakdown of the main components? I have no clue what I should be spending on a battery if my overall budget is ~$1200 USD, or for an ESC, or for motors, etc.
I should probably add what I’ve been thinking for my build so far:
Battery: 10s3p or 4p, Li-ion most likely. I’ve seen some from Meepo that fit this spec, but not sure on quality.
Motors: probably hub, not sure what sellers ship to Canada without me wanting to burn my pitiful student wallet
ESC: I’ve seen that the ones from MakerX (probably the dual VESC 4 set) aren’t too bad. The only local brand I know is Lacroix with their Stormcores but that looks WAY overkill for what I’m building.
First of I’m gonna say carbon fibre isn’t a very good idea. It’s conductive and acts as a makeshift Faraday cage for your remote reciever and any wireless telemetry. (As in it blocks wireless signals)
Welcome to the struggle. As a fellow Canadian I feel your pain. I’ve had to order my parts from the US, China, UK and even as far as Peru and Switzerland.
MakerX is great as they ship by air so you only have to wait a few weeks for that, and in my experience the VESCs are pretty dang reliable even up to their advertised current.
I highly recommend you get a VESC 6 based ESC and not one based on VESC 4.x.x
Start with a helmet. I know it might sound silly (someone else called it putting the cart before the horse) but I’m very serious. Helmet is going to set you back anywhere from $100-$300+. When you finish your board are you seriously going to wait for a helmet to arrive or, worse yet, to put together the money for one because you spent it all on parts? Or are you going to hop on your death machine thinking “I’ll just ride extra safe for a few weeks”?
Helmet first
Mboards has apparently stepped up their game for batteries (among other things) so don’t cross them off your list especially if you don’t need a custom pack to fit a particular enclosure.
Don’t worry so much about carbon fiber and radio signal unless you are making a carbon fiber enclosure as well. Worry about a reliable remote instead. You might be in luck there with the unfancy remote progressing nicely and it’ll be pretty much dyi at a low cost.
Carbon blocks radio, so glass fiber is highly recommended over carbon. Glass also has other properties that make it better for a deck IMHO. Only thing glass lacks that carbon has is “big dong energy” and “svelteness”. Glass wins in the technical department.
I want to put some lights on my lacroix lonestar supersport
I’m wondering about how to set up the light strips in regards to not tearing them due to the flex in the board
So the picture is a sketch of the bottom of the board, black squares represent the battery compartments / flea lines, Coloured lines represent led strip configurations, what would you guys do
