This is normal.
When referring to PWM we’re talking about 3 pins grouped together: 5v, GND and PWM(sense)
With UART it changes from VESC to VESC but typically we’re referring to: 3.3V and/or 5V, Tx, Rx, GND
UART ports will often have 1-3 ADC pins in them too, but those aren’t necessary for our uses.
It won’t be on your VESC. If you want to use Batt+ you’ll want to splice a wire into your positive line from your battery. Typically I’d do this on the ESC side of your XT90s
So then I should use the bat+ while using the UART mode? even though the diagram for the controller didn’t include it?
Except for this one:
it is just in a separate area and meant for a display I don’t even have anyway. So long as the controller doesn’t expect the signal to use more current than 150 mA it should work.
So they just left out the fact that I need to connect to bat+ in UART mode? or is that only accurate for older remotes. VX4 doesn’t show it being needed If I knew what data is being sent over the transmit and receive pins then all of this would have been much more clear as well. Since I’d know if the battery data was sent with the rest of the data or not and wouldn’t need to rely on the possibly incorrect diagrams in the manual
They’ve mislabeled this, it’s actually PWM.
This bat+ should work fine, I think. Probably better, actually, because it’s fused.
So then I am going to take that as meaning I should use it with UART mode.
It is actually good that you replied since I was meaning to ask you about the display it is meant for. Figured I should buy one just in case I ever want to use it. Trying to look it up on google doesn’t come up with any sort of listings for it or even a searchable part name.
They also label it as a servo pin section for the focbox which is equally wrong and strange 
I’m used to servo being used in this context.
Where do you need to mount a display? I wouldn’t buy one just in case, but if you have a particular spot you need a voltage display, show it
There is a frame and piece of acrylic in place for one already.
I don’t have a good photo of it without it being covered by tape currently but I can get one later today when I take the enclosure off to program the VESC
I few months ago my stormcore capacitors caught fire, I’ve been thinking and was wondering as it was in a pelican box with no tape or heatsink holding it in place. Could the impacts of jumping curbs and road vibration on the free balling stormcore have caused the capacitor solder joint to break or get damage cause it to short and burn?
appreciate the help mate, sorry I’ve got to keep asking questions
I thought it’d have a higher top speed… 13s lishen 35a around 40%, 190kv motors and programmed to be using 4.5 ratio with 175mm wheels. Bench testing only gets me a top speed of 31 mph. Am I missing something?
I have a pi 4b connected to a step down converter on my board. The pi is hooked up to a amplifier+speaker via a usb sound card to aux input to the amp. When I power the pi with the step down converter and the step down converter I get this static noise. Whereas when I plug the pi into an external power supply the noise is gone. How do I eliminate this noise while using power from my board? I had thought adding the usb sound card instead of using aux of pi would fix it but it doesn’t.
Could shielded cables be a solution? Any recommendations on what that means? Should I check for ground loops and how? When both the pi and amp are only connected to that same converter and no other grounds I still get the noise.
To make a filter I would need both a capacitor and inductor? Any suggestions for which ones and how to connect them?
I also have this arriving soon. Will it fix it?
If it’s a stormcore 60d, it does nothing (they messed up wiring the original batch)
If it’s a 60d+, it does the same thing as the other uart port. It just allows you to connect another uart device. For example, you can get remote telemetry from one port and plug a data logger like robogotchi or metr into the other.
Quick note, you have to be on FW 5.3 or higher to activate the uart3 port on the 60d+
Both the side and main 8pin UART ports run off the same power source also, so make sure you’re pulling less than 1A, per Lacroix’s recommendation.
So in trying to set up my focbox to work with my new remote (vx4) I noticed the motors weren’t spinning up and figured I just needed to change something in VESC tool since I wasn’t using the remote it was previously set to use.
Only VESC tool first said the focbox was running too new of firmware so it would only connect in limited mode, but then when trying to run motor detection it says the firmware needs to be updated? I don’t want to fuck around with the firmware and risk bricking it since it was working fine with the old remote. or at least the motors would spin up. didn’t test ride it due to needing longer phase and sensor wires first
I’m just doing it over USB with the desktop VESC tool 6.0 version if that matters. I can connect via bluetooth if absolutely necessary but I’d prefer not to since my PC case tends to block out the signal and make the connection quality low which sounds like a great way to brick the focbox.
Not sure wtf I’m doing wrong and searching the forum didn’t help much. If i missed something due to bad searching, then just point me to it if it has the info I need.
Did you change esc type in the remote from FSESC to Focbox?
Yes, and changed all the other settings to their correct values except for the motor pulley. I need to count the teeth on it because I have no idea what it is. Also the screen does show that it registers the thumbwheel input so that isn’t broken. (also if it was broken then I wouldn’t have been able to change any settings)
and the pole pairs might be wrong because I have no clue what my motor has so I left that at the default
How the fuck am I supposed to know the number of pole pairs on my motor if the seller for them couldn’t be bothered to list them?
@YUTW123 why is this necessary information not listed on your product page?
7 pairs / 14 magnets.
