It is easier to achieve tight tolerances with machining than injection molding, so machined aluminum hubs are often better in terms of balance and fit. Not guaranteed, as there are both very good injection molders, and very bad machinists, but on average aluminum is better.
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I have an s120 50.4v charger. The charger will work on other batteries but i have one battery where it charges to 48v and then flashes red/green.
The pacck had previously charged to 50.4, went for a ride, and now stuck at 48. Ive measured the p groups in the battery to be 4.06 +/- .02 without variance. Is the charger letting me know a cell is bad? Or could it possibly be a weak connection somewhere in the charging wiring? I have suspicion the cells are healthy as they charhed up to 50.4 the first time.
Thanks.
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60V maximum ESC voltage. Does this mean 12s or 13s Li-Ion? Is there more to the difference than this?
12S
So why is this a thing?
The closer you run to the limits of the components, the less reliable it will be
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Plenty of people have run 13s on 60v controllers, it’s just a bigger risk
Is not using brakes for the first ~2V of discharge mitigate that risk? Are there other measures to mitigate the risk using 13s on a 60v ESC?
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I did it with escapes and hummie hubs. Was always very ginger on the brakes for the first few kms.
I’d say trying to minimise voltage spikes is wise, i’m sure there are a number of ways to do that.
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Anyone have ideas on how to get this axle out? The hex is stripped.
I tried putting a nut on it with some green loctite to use the nut as a grip. But, when I heat up the axle the heat just radiates to the axle tip and loosens the green loctite…
On another one of these axles I dremeled a slot for a flathead, but the metal is weirdly brittle and it doesn’t work very well.
Any ideas? Send help!
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if u gonna destroy the axle in the process, might as well grind 2 flat spot opposite side of each other, then tighten it on a vise and start twisting the hanger?
any scrub screw take u might have missed?
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took the grub screw out so that’s not it… think it’s just extra tough to remove, maybe cause of the bend in the axle?
good idea grinding it and using a vice… may have to do that if I can’t figure out an easier solution lol
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Pipe wrenches are literally designed for this, just have to find a small one. They’re designed to grab onto a smooth pipe and torque the shit out of it.
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If you can get your hands on a set of Knipex Cobra pliers, they are basically a pipe wrench in pliers form. Highly recommended for gripping round things.
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I’ve never used those, so take this with a grain of salt. But it doesn’t look like the physics of those pliers have the same sort of self-tightening mechanism that a pipe wrench does, where the more you try to torque it, the tighter it grips. Maybe they do…IDK
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They do have some of that self-gripping mojo. One of their promotional videos shows a guy grabbing a pipe with the pliers, and then standing on the handle to demonstrate just how well they self-tighten.
They are the best pair of adjustable pliers I have ever used, and it’s not even close.
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Sounds like I have a purchase to make.
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I am happy to spread the good word of Knipex tools.
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I second this. These things absolutely rock.
Got it for $15 at a flea market shop and they had a few others I’m considering going back for.
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Hello, i am having troubles with my vx 1 remote and i was hoping somone could maybe help me.
I am using the remote for vesc 4 and i use a vesc 6 from what i understood UART should not work but PPM should.
However even when i set my vesc for PPM imput the vesc tool doesn’t detect the vx1 signal.
I tried with other RC receivers and remots and the vesc works fine (i can spin the motors)
But nothing happens with the VX1…
if anybody has an idea or an advice…
thx