Lol I’ve thought of this, but it requires always-on power trickle, which we probably wouldn’t want
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Or a seperate CMOS battery
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It ended up being that mine came updated. It is already on the fixed 1.1 version.
True, I also like having my battery displayed since otherwise I don’t even know how to begin keeping track of my range without buying a smart bms. The main thing I need is the speed though since other remotes that don’t have screens do usually have little leds for battery.
Plus the vx4 allows you to have easy to swap speed modes which is a requirement for me. Sometimes I want to go to a higher torque option just to get up a hill, or to make a light in time, but I don’t want to ride with that all the time. more torque being given by a steeper acceleration curve
you can also use other telemetry like a metr, iLogger, Robogotchi or DaveGa/Davega/Roxie
or what I had to do for the passed week, carry a DMM around to check the voltage and do quick maths on the go
I was looking at the Davega but with my set up there is no good location for it. Also don’t trust myself not to move my foot onto it and then end up loosing my balance because of it. The other stuff would use my phone which I don’t like pulling out while on my board.
My enclosure is made to be as water tight as possible and I’d have to stop on the side of the road for several minutes to open it up to do that 
I’m using a Pelican case ATM and the only way it’s secured is ratchet straps , so I gotta untangle those and take them off and pop the top so it’s a few minutes for me too. If I’m that worried about my battery level though I’m less worried about spending a few minutes checking it.
To be fair, I should have said several minutes to be more accurate. Each half of the enclosure has 8 bolts each and the bolts I bought are a bit longer than they need to be which makes it take longer to tighten or remove the nuts. I didn’t want to risk going too short and having the lock nut not even lock on properly.
For a real time clock definitely, but even just having a time elapsed since remote turned on would work for me. Or a a stopwatch. Definitely don’t want a constant drain though, I agree.
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You don’t have a charge port?
…I didn’t think about that. It would work on my main board but the 2nd board has one that would be too tiny for my probes to fit into I think.
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I’d rather just switch the charge port to the bigger 3 pin version tbh. Then I could use my multimeter in it easily.
Only reason I haven’t is just in case I fuck up the sides/ the charger wires have misleading colors. I have a sacrificial 10s charger I don’t need (it is too low of current) and an extra port that I could use to switch the 12s charger to the bigger plug for free.
Don’t stick multimeter probes into charge ports!
And for fuck’s sake, make sure your charge ports are fused.
If you have to measure from a charge port, plug something into it that has wires on it, and use the multimeter on those wires.
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This for sure. All my chargers are fitted with xt60 or xt90 and i just make adapters from that to the charge port on the board. Super easy to use one charger for multiple charge port types and super easy to check voltage from charge port with minimal risk
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Can’t figure out if I am having an issue with my DV6 on my Omakase or if it’s something else. When I turn the board on via loop key a lot of the time only one motor will spin up (forward and reverse). When connecting via Bluetooth using VESC tool it will find the DV6 fine, however when I scan for CAN devices it won’t find any (only local). After disconnecting and unplugging and plugging in the loop key again sometimes I can get both motors to spin up, and when scanning for CAN devices in VESC tool it will find local and CAN devices.
Sounds like the CAN connection might be flaky? Not sure what to check for. All motor phase wire connections are good (5.5mm bullets, taped to prevent disconnection). Sensor cables feel secure into the ESC.
Make sure both escs have different CAN ids
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Yes, local comes up 60 and CAN is 69 I believe
Be really careful about those loose wires though. Ideally you’d have the multimeter probes already connected to the wires and insulated before this adaptor is plugged into the battery.
I have a battery that I won’t be able to use for a month or so, and need to discharge it to storage voltage but my ESC is broken, so riding the board isn’t an option.
What’s the safest way to do this?