Stooge Race Boards sells a great set of 10mm spacers, buy them and be happy.
Link?
Send Moe an email and he will sell them, its not on his website.
One of my 4s lipo batteries is dead. I’m down from 16s to 12s for my battery source. Do I need to adjust any vesc settings before riding again?
My setup
4x 6374 190kv motors
Ubox spintend
Makerx d75
Hoyt puck remote
Split remote reciever to ESCs
Was 16s battery, now 12s.
Yes; your voltage cutoffs
I have a stormcore 60D+ issue.
I finished a ride a few days ago and turned off the board. I went to turn it on the next day and it wouldn’t. This has happened before and I usually just have to disconnect and re-connect the battery. I did it a few days later and my boards battery was almost dead, and my stormcore was 27° C in a 19°C room (80F and 66F for the americans).
My stormcore had been warm this entire time (4-5 days), draining the battery and not turning on. It had a green light when I looked at it too but that’s all I know.
It’s connected to a battery built by @Skyart so I doubt there is a fault there. If anyone is familiar with the issue please tell me what I need to do.
Thanks.
Could be that your momentary switch has failed and is stuck in the “closed” position which, as I understand is rare. If this is the case, you could add a loopkey to your circuit as a way to disconnect the Stormcore from the battery instead of having to open it up to do so. You could also try replacing the switch but it’s possible that the built-in anti-spark circuit has failed in which case a new switch wouldn’t accomplish anything.
I’m def not an expert tho.
This thread may shed some light or else reach out to Lacroix directly for support.
@jaykup might also be able to shed some light.
I think its a switch problem as well
You can find cheap replacement 12v led switches that work but i think you want 5v.
open the enclosure, unplug the battery, unplug the power button from the stormcore, then plug battery back in, then two things can happen:
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if stormcore power itself on right when u plug in the battery, then ur AS is stuck in closed position and u will need a loopkey to hard disconnect to turn it off
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if stormcore doesn’t power on, then get something metal and short the MOM pin on the power button port on the stormcore, this should power on the stormcore. if that works, grab a multimeter and check the continuity on the power button MOM pins, if it beeps, then u need a new button, if it doesn’t beep, report back.
Thank you very much guys.
While I fix the board or wait for parts is there any risk of a battery fire? I would’t normally ask this but the fact that there was current flowing through the ESC for a few days is rather concerning.
What’s the voltage of your pack? As long as it didn’t discharge below 2.5 volts per cell there wouldn’t be any damage to the pack but obv don’t leave it connected to the esc until you’ve identified the problem. Charge your pack to storage voltage (3.6v per cell) and leave it disconnected from the controller and you should be fine assuming you didn’t go below liion cutoff voltage as above.
it’s 12s and when I found it, it was exactly 3.6 per cell. I had left it at 3.9 per cell though. I won’t leave the board connected until I work it out then.
Thank you.
Excuse my ignorance but which are the MOM pins? Also what is the AS?
I really appreciate the help thanks.
on unmodified power button, it should be the 2 white wires, u can probe it either at the JST connector, or on the button pin itself
antispark, a hardware component that controls turning on and off of the stormcore
Cheers guys.
Normally I leave the skateboard on, and let it turn off by itself on the timer. Last night I turned it off with the power button. The stormcore stayed on and my remote connected, despite the button being unlit. I am almost certain it’s a power button issue which is a relief. I have a multi meter and I’ll check the MOM/BTN pins tonight.
Needless to say the battery is now disconnected and the stormcore is on my desk.
Does anyone have any recommendations for waterproof/breathable fabric or a hydrophobic membrane material that allows air to pass through while repelling liquids and dirt? I need to cover the holes on my lid for the mics on my mic array to prevent water and dirt from going through. This is my mic array. ReSpeaker Mic Array v2.0 | Seeed Studio Wiki This is my plan for my new lid.
The 4 mics are in yellow. There’s a raised lip around them so they’re less likely to behave analogous to a hole in the ground and collect water. The lips are asymmetrical because of the speakers beside cutting into that space. I’ll wrap the material fully over and down around the lips and probably put a ring of silicone around it to seal it in place. My lid is at a 30deg angle to the ground so its not full on taking the brunt of the wind (90deg) but dirt in the wind will surely clog the mics over time? I am mainly considering 1.4 oz 10D Waterproof/Breathable - Ripstop by the Roll which is similar to goretex and eVent. I could also spray my waterproof shoe spray on top of this fabric which works very well and makes water bead straight off. I also looked at dupont tyvek homewrap but that doesnt seem to allow air through immediately which I need for sound, only very slowly like humidity?
I’ve also stumbled upon balloons, condoms, and nitrile gloves. This pro “audio supervisor on Discovery Channel’s Gold Rush White Water” uses a cut-up glove to attach to the people’s wetsuits How to Waterproof a Lavalier Mic - YouTube. These 3 materials are not ideal because they aren’t meant to be breathable to allow air/sound through, which is very important to be able for the mic to pick up my voice over road/wind noise and music from afar. The mic works perfectly at this right now, but I don’t think I can allow to muffle it too much. I am in ON, Canada so not everything is as available as in the USA.
expanded PTFE (ePTFE) membranes are commonly used for IP rated smartphones:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2261800202285944.html
There are also microphones that are intrinsically IP rated, such as the Infineon IM73A135, which is IP57: