What’s the voltage of your pack? As long as it didn’t discharge below 2.5 volts per cell there wouldn’t be any damage to the pack but obv don’t leave it connected to the esc until you’ve identified the problem. Charge your pack to storage voltage (3.6v per cell) and leave it disconnected from the controller and you should be fine assuming you didn’t go below liion cutoff voltage as above.
it’s 12s and when I found it, it was exactly 3.6 per cell. I had left it at 3.9 per cell though. I won’t leave the board connected until I work it out then.
Thank you.
Excuse my ignorance but which are the MOM pins? Also what is the AS?
I really appreciate the help thanks.
on unmodified power button, it should be the 2 white wires, u can probe it either at the JST connector, or on the button pin itself
antispark, a hardware component that controls turning on and off of the stormcore
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Cheers guys.
Normally I leave the skateboard on, and let it turn off by itself on the timer. Last night I turned it off with the power button. The stormcore stayed on and my remote connected, despite the button being unlit. I am almost certain it’s a power button issue which is a relief. I have a multi meter and I’ll check the MOM/BTN pins tonight.
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Needless to say the battery is now disconnected and the stormcore is on my desk.
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Does anyone have any recommendations for waterproof/breathable fabric or a hydrophobic membrane material that allows air to pass through while repelling liquids and dirt? I need to cover the holes on my lid for the mics on my mic array to prevent water and dirt from going through. This is my mic array. ReSpeaker Mic Array v2.0 | Seeed Studio Wiki This is my plan for my new lid.
The 4 mics are in yellow. There’s a raised lip around them so they’re less likely to behave analogous to a hole in the ground and collect water. The lips are asymmetrical because of the speakers beside cutting into that space. I’ll wrap the material fully over and down around the lips and probably put a ring of silicone around it to seal it in place. My lid is at a 30deg angle to the ground so its not full on taking the brunt of the wind (90deg) but dirt in the wind will surely clog the mics over time? I am mainly considering 1.4 oz 10D Waterproof/Breathable - Ripstop by the Roll which is similar to goretex and eVent. I could also spray my waterproof shoe spray on top of this fabric which works very well and makes water bead straight off. I also looked at dupont tyvek homewrap but that doesnt seem to allow air through immediately which I need for sound, only very slowly like humidity?
I’ve also stumbled upon balloons, condoms, and nitrile gloves. This pro “audio supervisor on Discovery Channel’s Gold Rush White Water” uses a cut-up glove to attach to the people’s wetsuits How to Waterproof a Lavalier Mic - YouTube. These 3 materials are not ideal because they aren’t meant to be breathable to allow air/sound through, which is very important to be able for the mic to pick up my voice over road/wind noise and music from afar. The mic works perfectly at this right now, but I don’t think I can allow to muffle it too much. I am in ON, Canada so not everything is as available as in the USA.
expanded PTFE (ePTFE) membranes are commonly used for IP rated smartphones:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2261800202285944.html
There are also microphones that are intrinsically IP rated, such as the Infineon IM73A135, which is IP57:
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wow! that seems perfect! “The porosity of ePTFE is unique in that it allows vapours and gases to pass through, while preventing liquids from doing so. This has very important implications in venting and high-end filtration, wherein a system may need to be leak-proof, while also allowing excess gases to escape rather than cause any pressure build up”. I’m going to order it within the next 24hrs because it will take a while to get here. Do you have any recommendations of which aperture or pore size I should buy? Have you used this before? How durable do you think it will be? Like maybe I’ll replace it every season? Also, do you have any feedback on my lid design?
chatgpt:
"To allow sound waves in the range of human ear to pass through the material, the pore size should be at least 20 microns. This is because the human ear can detect sound waves with frequencies ranging from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, and the wavelength of sound waves at the lower end of this range is approximately 17 meters, which corresponds to a frequency of 20 Hz. As the frequency increases, the wavelength decreases, and at 20 kHz, the wavelength is approximately 1.7 cm. Therefore, to allow sound waves in this range to pass through, the pore size should be larger than the wavelength, which is approximately 20 microns.
However, if you want the material to be waterproof and not allow wind to pass through at a speed of 30 kph, the pore size should be smaller than 0.45 microns. This is because the air flux of the material with a pore size of 0.45 microns is only suitable for talking through, but not for wind resistance. A pore size smaller than 0.45 microns will provide better waterproofing and wind resistance, but may also restrict the passage of sound waves". Smaller = better protection, bigger = better sound transmission.
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Unfortunately I don’t have any hands-on experience with the stuff. I’d say get a couple sizes and test them, see how they behave.
It might be worth using a backer material like nylon mesh, depending on how robust the ePTFE membrane itself is.
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Hello
I donno know but it may be odd question
About flipsky 75100
On AliExpress I found three types ( or colors ), silver , black , and black with alu pcb, I know about the black with alu, ( more powerful MOSFETs, and better cooling via aluminum pcb), the question is , what is the difference between the silver and black one?
silve costs 64$ and black codts 84$, it worth asking such odd question … right ? 
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Are they from the same seller? Do they list any different specs further down the product description? Do the photos look any different (internal photos especially, if present)?
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I would avoid this ESC. It overheats very easily.
The flatter Aluminum PCB one is much better
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Photos shows the black one its the video showing silver , I assumed its older version thats why its cheap , so I’m here to ask about this
I read your thread about the upgrade , and I’m willing to thicken connection tracks at MOSFETs, changing the heatsink … Etc as you mentioned, I can make a liquid cooling if that would be better
So if what you mentioned in your thread to solve heat problem it’s enough, tell me, btw I can make liquid cooling if nessesary, to save money , if all this isn’t enough tell me
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No both are same specs, not same seller, no internal photos , even flipsky website doesnt show internal photos 
that could be it. Check the shipping too, some sellers have a cheaper product but more expensive shipping, and vice versa.
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Have you tried to see if you could skip the microphone on the board and instead use bluetooth to connect to an external microphone? Best option would be to just piggyback on your phone to use its mic but that may be more hassle than just getting separate wireless mics. depending on what phone you have
Alternatively, what about putting the mics in the remote? 
You already need the remote in hand to operate the board so you wouldn’t need to carry anything extra that way.
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Thanks for the suggestions. My phone is usually in my pocket when riding. For a wireless mic that’s an extra thing to charge and worry about. Putting it in the remote is compelling, but I like just being able to talk directly to the board so it feels like the board is alive. I may consider that depending on how this works.
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