Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

It’s not too late to buy the axles :slight_smile:

(so next time you’re cussing at the shoulder bolts you can just use them to store bearings on and put your nice new axles in your skate)

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I bent the 10mm already :grin:

Besides this is 8mm axle, both my 10mm axles run the solid fixed axles

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If I get a lot of issues with these I’ll swap, but I love how narrow these are

I mean look how pretty this is :yum:

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That is super nice!

But you can get just as narrow with regular axles :wink:

And like 15mm of spacers sticking out of the wheel :nauseated_face:

Actually it’s 17mm of spacers

What is a loopkey? My understanding is that it’s a “hard disconnect” between the battery and everything else in case shit hits the fan. Am I right?

Also can be used like an antispark switch. Instead of a fancy button one which is likely to blow up

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Could you elaborate? What is an anti spark switch and why are buttons likely to blow?

Pretty much. It’s also handy if you’re gonna store the board for a period of time, you can pull the key to reduce the chance of parasitic drain. Or when shipping the board, ship it with the loop key out so it can’t accidentally be turned on.

Its also used as a way to turn a board on/off without an antispark switch. If you use an antispark xt90, its a safe way to connect the esc to the battery without inrush current blowing up your capacitors.

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DC current likes to make sparks when you plug a battery in.
Antispark switches allow you to turn things in without that.
Antispark circuits tend to blow up. Some have anecdotal evidence of performing but fail for other peeps. I have had luck with the good smart flipsky one.
Xt90s have a small resistor which allows small current to flow before they fully plug in. This doesn’t tend to fail much and works like a low tech anti spark switch. Plus they cheap

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Some escs have a built in antispark switch, and historically they haven’t been extremely reliable.

There are also standalone antispark switches, and again, they have questionable reliability.

The loop key is a simple, cheap and effective way to turn your board on/off without worrying about your shit exploding in your face.

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Haha been there. Battery fire, first build. Don’t do this :joy:

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That’s what I’m terrified of in my first build :grimacing::grimacing::grimacing:

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I was pretty drunk, and soldered a battery connector in reverse polarity. Plugged in and lipo explosion haha. No harm no foul. Good lesson

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Just do lots of reading, keep asking direct questions, and share photos and information of parts of your build you are unsure of before you do the stupid shit.

Plenty of helpful peeps round here that want nothing more for you to build your board safely.

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I can expand on @glyphiks answer

It’s cheap, ugly, really high quality, and effective. It’s that “ugly” bit that some folks don’t like, and essentially the entire reason all the other methods exist at all. It’s definitely not a refined user experience like pressing a button. It’d be like if you bought a nice new car, and to start it, you had to move a wire under the hood.

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So glad that when I did something similar it was with NiMH batteries so they didn’t get damaged and the only causality was the wire insulation being burned off into my hand. I saw smoke, grabbed the battery pack directly with my hand and was heading to the kitchen for the fire extinguisher. A step away from my desk I realized I just short circuited the batteries to each other and cut the wire.

Wanted to test them in series after wiring the holder for parallel use and was too tired to realize the wiring for the terminals needed to be changed first. 2nd degree heat and chemical burns to the palm of my left hand. :upside_down_face: Had to explain several times that if it was an electrical burn I’d be dead or at least all the nerves in my hand would be since the batteries could each put out more than 30 amps (although at like 2.5v i think? Can’t remember the exact voltage)

10 miliamps across the heart or brain = death

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In Nuke school we had a few weeks working on a radar system that had 17KV running through sections. Had to wear thick rubber gloves when you work on them and ensure there were no pinholes. For new ETs you’d always reassure them, “Don’t worry, it’s not the voltage that will kill you”

And of course they always respond saying “it’s the current.”

“No, it’s your neck snapping when you hit the wall behind you”

Everyone checked their gloves for pinholes each and everytime :rofl:

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I don’t and will not do any work with high voltage stuff for that reason. You can do everything right safety wise but then one little thing is messed up and you’re dead or the building is damaged. Also my university did not have any training for high voltage stuff but even if they did I wouldn’t do it.

“death cables” aka having to cut a power cable and strip it is high voltage enough for me, and then I’d be okay working on the control system for a set up that included high voltage components but that is it.

High current alone doesn’t bother me though since flesh has high resistance so it’s safer and also last I checked high current but with low or medium voltage can’t arc across large distances.

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2.5v is nowhere near enough to get 30A through your hand.