Question about 3 link trucks. Their turn-to-lean ratio looks very interesting, but most content is focused on the track experience. Any particular reason these trucks would be ill-suited for city slicking/light offroading? The suspended axle gives me pause but considering it is 16mm steel I’m sure it would hold up for riders on the lighter end of the spectrum. Could a curb drop snap em?
1 Like
You could always do Trampa style and have an XT90 jumper outside the enclosure.
2 Likes
Here is the idea:
Let me know what you guys think. I think with some slight modification of the captured loopkey design it would work very well.
Is the external battery removable, or simply in a separate enclosure, but fixed?
Removable, was planning on making a separate battery box for the second one that would be strapped to the top of the other when needed.
You’re way overthinking this.
Ditch the loopkey entirely. Have a male
XT90 come out of the enclosure on short 12AWG wires, which runs the ESC(s). Have a female XT90S plug in the side of the enclosure which is the main battery. Plug that together to turn it on. OR, strap another battery to it, and plug the ESC into the strapped on battery’s female XT90S.
1 Like
So that would just be the main battery leads hanging out of some holes in the enclosure that you would just plug into the male XT90? Then swap to the other battery when needed? I understand that this is technically simpler but if I go with the above design then everything will be low profile to the enclosure which is a goal of mine. I also just like the idea of a slider to switch between batteries.
No, more like this
Except different, and only one of those jumpers, and it’s attached at one end, and can’t be removed. And probably dyed black instead of vomit beige.
And not one of those horrible enclosures pictured here.
Y’all got a preferred brand of closed cell neoprene foam? Or any other recs for gasket material? I got about a 5mm gap that needs filling, I think adhesive backed would be preferred and I can leave it on the deck
How do I maintain hub motors for maximum lifespan?
1 Like
Don’t ride in the rain, done.
5 Likes
You could have two loop key receptacles, one for each battery. Only carry one loop key, and that way, you can only power off one battery at a time, and it only takes a couple seconds to switch.
That way, they’re in parallel and only one can be connected at a time.
Edit: looks like you have a path forward already
1 Like
3 char
1 Like
If you ride in bad conditions, open them up and see if they need cleaning. It is easier to clean off a light layer of rust vs letting it get so rusty it almost won’t come apart. You can also clean out the bearings and add new grease but that would be maintenance done after a lot of use or after a year of use.
1 Like
I layer 3mm EVA foam. It squishes down to basically nothing under enough pressure, so I tend to overfill the gap and let the bolts squish it nice and snug. Works very well for me.
I hate sticking anything like that to the deck though. I always stick it onto the enclosure flange. Depending on your enclosure that might not be an option, like some of the eboosted enclosures don’t really have a substantial flange at the ends so i’d reluctantly stick to the deck in that situation.
1 Like
I’m working with my first set of gears atm. In the process of arbor pressing out jbwelded pinions from a motor shaft, I mared the bottom face of the pinion.
I removed the marks and then did a few passes with a green pad. All that’s shiney is not gold.
These are steel mod 2 spur pinions from an unridden @moon drive set. How do I get back to black?
Does the black oxide finish matter if well lubed in the spec’d motul grease?
If finish does matter, will a hot dip in oil be worth the heat changes to the pinion? (It was already cooked with a hand butane torch to loosen jbweld)
1 Like
you could use “cold blue” to get a similar effect.
I don’t have any experience with moon’s stuff, but as long as the drives are reasonably sealed, IMO you probably don’t need to go to the trouble.
1 Like
If I wanted to run 4wd would it be fine on a 4p battery, or should I really consider more cells per p group?
normally yes, u have more weight as a whole, u have more rolling resistance also, ur average Wh/km is gonna go up even on the same route with same riding style. so u probably should have more than 4p
besides, more p = less heat per cell = less degrade, so its a good thing unless u overkill it like @Takachi14 making 20p
1 Like