NESE modular jumper - 🐉 Dragon MTB build

#Loopkey

Despite my best intentions at minimizing complexity, I added a loopkey. It was just a bit too cumbersome to open the case, fish around for the right xt90, and unplug in order to power down.

Hole’s made. No going back now. Dremel + drill bit for dogbone cut took no time at all.

Chopped the existing parallel harness to add the panel mount loopkey.

Slightly tricky to solder in place, with the harness through the hole.

Hot glue & heatshrink to ensure no unintended shorts

Even a tiny bit of butyl tape goes everywhere! This stuff is devil tar. But it works a treat for waterproofing.

Repurposed the old lightning key and we’re ready to ride again

11 Likes

#Footpads

Here you go @PixelatedPolyeurthan - spiked footpads for snow, ice, & rain!


Done
22 tiny steel spikes per foot.

Actually doesn’t even feel bad on bare feet, but holds my shoe real tight.

12 Likes

You should make a thread dedicated to this. This is the best thing I’ve seen in a while and I wholeheartedly love how swiftly it evolved and the result looks damn great.
Bravo :tada:

It needs an official name now, but I won’t honour you one because I’m terrible at naming :joy:

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Looking cool, I have to imagine if you made the mistake of wearing a soft-soled shoe, that it could end badly lol

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#Motors

I used some downtime to investigate this “cricket-chirp” sound I’ve been hearing from one motor. It started on my last build, before its untimely death, and continues after the move to this build. It wasn’t so bad that it was concerning, but more an issue that it masks any other noises that might end in worse problems.

At one point I slammed that motor into a rock, so it doesn’t surprise me that there’s an issue. After some investigation, there seems to be some shaft misalignment - I can see the gap between stator and rotor bell increasing and decreasing as I hand spin the bell. I figured it was rubbing somewhere.

Time to disassemble! Lucky me, found a broken winding in the process (or caused it).

I used the aspirin trick to remove the winding lacquer:

Get one tab of full strength aspirin (not tylenol, advil, etc). Get soldering iron hot and tin the tip. Press end of winding and iron tip into aspirin at the same time. Make sure to use a real fume extractor (or hold your breath) - fumes are super toxic, more than usual. After 10-20 seconds, the lacquer has melted off and the wire will come out tinned!

Worked like a charm.

Solder wire ends together, apply much too large heat shrink, and tuck into stator.

While I was at it, I figured I’d do a full battle harden with epoxy (and colloidal silica to thicken). Some of the other windings were loose and did not inspire confidence.

Isopropyl alcohol on a shop rag does a nice job of cleaning up epoxy while still wet. This was actually a lot easier and quicker than I expected, and I only had a popsicle stick and gloved fingers to apply. Maybe not entirely necessary, but the peace of mind knowing the motor is more waterproof (including sensor) is great.

After a 24hr cure, I went to work filing down the edge of the stator to solve the rubbing/noise issue. Medium file, fine file, 400 grit, 800 grit sandpaper, b/c why not.


Reassemble using the patented @b264 towel technique.

Fun fact - this wasn’t the problem and did nothing to solve my noise issue.

Plan B - blue all the things and look for contact.

I ended up blueing almost the entire stator and found nothing conclusive… but, silver lining, something happened after 3-4 rounds of reassembly that shook/smashed/moved the noise into silence. My best guess is that it may have been Flipsky’s “battle-hardening”/balancing epoxy that got dislodged and was rubbing. Either way, the noise is 90% gone.

And now I have one motor with a shiny raw aluminum “machined lip”.


A E S T H E T I C S

It was a fun learning opportunity anyway. Disassembling these motors is about as difficult as disassembling a truck. I won’t hesitate to inspect in the future.

10 Likes

A whole mishmash of updates:

That pink line is me cruising along at 30mph (I thought it was more like 20). I was distracted and in a rush, trying to follow gps directions on my phone to the meetup point. That purple/blue/green section is me hitting a patch of rough road and the next thing I know I’m sprawled out superman style in the middle of the street and my board is spinning off down the road, enclosure side down like a turtle on its back. First esk8 crash.

I sat on the side of the road in a bit of a daze and chilled for a minute. I’ve unfortunately crashed cars and bikes before, so I wasn’t in much of a rush any longer. Checked myself and the board over. Board was still running like a champ, like nothing happened. Thank the PETG gods, my batteries didn’t move a mm. @Savage1 heatsink took the brunt of the slide - not so anodized any longer. But it too is still very secure in it’s spot. This is why I loctite & reinforce everything.

I suffered a little more wear. As always, I was wearing:

Stupidly, I left the jacket unzipped. Which allowed me to spring a small leak:

Jacket ripped on the right shoulder and all the pads got banged up. I 100% attribute my lack of hand injury to these Knox gloves I just picked up. I used to ride with summer weight textile gloves, with minimal padding, until I started reading up on how common wrist injuries are on all PEVs. The gloves performed flawlessly and have the scratch marks to prove it. Not even any pain in my hands, and I definitely hit the ground first with them, despite (usually) knowing how to fall.

I came away from what could’ve been really bad with only hip abrasion, a feeling like someone punched me hard in the chest, and a sore left shoulder. After a weekend, only the hip still hurts. It takes me longer than I’d like to get geared up to ride, but I’m quite glad I did. And all this happened before the group ride even started!

Of course, I couldn’t stop there. So I limped to the meetup point, borrowed some bandages, and rode a little more conservatively than usual. Ride ended when I got a flat without the right tools to replace. All in all, a good friday night.

18 Likes

Glad you’re not too bashed up dude! I think the ground look on the heatsink looks awesome. It’s like a hickey from the universe.

8 Likes

Glad you’re alright! It took me awhile to feel comfortable after my crash last year. I’m still kind of a puss, though. Great write up. I will send you a new one without those stormcore holes, ( when I get around to making some more). Also, very nice build.

8 Likes

#Lights


Finished my light mount design:


Wired these up to the battery via this LM2596hv buck (you win @b264 :slight_smile: ) and they lit up first go!


Was pretty impressed, not only with the light output, but the fact they still work. When I had them strapped to the front hanger with their included bike rubber band mount, one popped off mid ride. It was dangling from its wires. Before I had a chance to secure it, the wire actually ripped off, the light hit the ground, bounced, and landed back on the deck next to my foot. I snagged it and put it in my pocket - all at ~20mph :rofl:

I cracked the light open to check damage, assuming I’d have to order another from Ali. Clean rip right at the board. I was able to disassemble the whole thing, suck the solder off, and reattach the + and - wires to their pads. Reassembled, coated the wire exit in silicone, loctited shut, and installed. Good as new.

#Tires

While I was at it, I decided I’d prefer to never get a flat tire again. Went all out - tire liner & slime.


21" length of Mr. Tuffy Bicycle tape covers the interior wall of an 8" knobby tire. I used the 20x1.95-2.5 size for the width, mainly. Fit well. Plenty left over.

Slimed all 4 tires. Used most of an 8oz bottle - although this was probably way too much.

7 Likes

How hot do these lights get, out of curiosity? I have a pretty neat set and they get to 60C+ within a couple minutes of running, when at full brightness

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They’ve only been on for a total of about 60 seconds, haha, so no data to report yet.

That said, when I disassembled them (should’ve taken photos) I realized there’s very little to these lights. One circular pcb, with one CREE/COB LED mounted in the center, a few components on the back, the reflective cone and cover glass. That’s it. The pcb is mounted on an interior lip of the housing and the whole housing acts as a heatsink. The housing is massive compared to the pcb (and LED). If there were no heat concerns, the light could be much smaller. Without testing, the housing looks like it’ll dissipate a good amount of heat. And it’s exterior surface is ribbed/finned like a traditional heatsink for more surface area.

1 Like

Hm yeah. I have a set of these on their way to me to test as well. The lights I currently have are three brightness settings but much smaller, with two diodes. I imagine yours won’t get tooooo hot

Also, aren’t you supposed to run straight diodes on an LED driver board, not right off a buck? I assume you set the current limit before plugging in?

It’s more than an led on a pcb. And it’s intended to be powered via USB, at least the ones I got.
No limits set anywhere. I’m not sure how you would - maybe within a smart BMS, using the discharge line?

I don’t have a BMS onboard.

Ah okay, I didn’t know what the power level of these lights was supposed to be tbh, if they run off usb I guess that’s fine

Looking at the buck converter again, it looks like it can only do 1.5a continuous, so as long as the voltage is set right you’re good

LED drivers can limit the current and voltage I believe.

Yep, I can’t find it now, but I believe the input voltage is 5-8.4V for the lights.
USB 2.0 supplies 0.5mA max, so x2 is ~1.0A. Safety factor of AliExpress, we can assume 2.0A is possible max current draw. Some of those Ali listings also sell a 2s 18650 pack for bikes, intended to be powered directly from the battery at 8.4V, so that checks out.

That’s how I sized the buck. It’s output voltage is adjustable, set to 5V now. Increasing that voltage may allow the light to run cooler (& the buck more efficiently). It can provide 1.5-3.0A.
Buck input voltage is claimed to be 55V (60V on some of the LM2596hv). That should be enough head room for a fully charged 12s pack.

I’ll do some testing, and try adjusting the voltage up to ~8.0V and see what changes.

@Toughook is running them at 8.4V, maybe he can chime in on performance so far.

2 Likes

Nice nice. That’s cool

My lights I’m running at 7.5v each, I think they had a similar voltage range.

1 Like

Yes, so far so good with the 12v>8.4v buck converter. Lights running fine and as they would be expected to from the bundled 8.4v pack (which now sits in my drawer).

Longevity of the lights themselves remains to be seen, but they are not broken yet !

2 Likes

#Lights

A little more feedback on these lights.

I took them out for a night ride the other day. They have a high, low, and flash mode. On high, the pair are suuuuper bright. Like car hi-beams bright. It’s wonderful, if unnecessary. After a couple blocks, they shut down. Seems like an issue with my buck - it was burning hot inside the main enclosure. Too many amps, no heat sink. I’ll have to remedy that eventually. But the housings were at ambient temp - no appreciable temp increase at all.

I turned them back on onto the low setting, which is still quite bright. I ran that for about 8 miles continuously. Buck was very warm, but manageable. Headlight housing were barely warm at all.


Also… I ran into a (few) tree(s) out riding with @skate420 on some incredible single track mtb trails. I managed to crack my original headlight mount bracket in PETG: Files on printables.com

So I retooled it for TPU, set the headlights behind the hanger (duh) so they’d hit first, and stiffened the whole part. Also added a cable-tie hole for extra stability. Now they look awesome and survive anything. V1 is testing, but going strong.
Files on printables.com

[Street version in PETG on left, offroad version in TPU on right]



9 Likes

#Tuning

After a couple longer rides, I’ve been hitting 30+ mph (48kph) consistently but it does not feel very stable. I was in a faster group ride (they come in chill, fast, and faster flavors around these parts) chasing some speed freaks on EUCs, lovely people, and barely surfing out the wobbles over cracks and bumps in the road.

I’m on a mission to get stable at top speed with this setup. The calc says max loaded speed is around 36mph (56 kph). I don’t think I’ve hit that, but I’m getting close.

Current setup:

  • Metal Matrix II trucks
  • Orange shock blocks front, red rear (used of unknown age, compressed / creep?)
  • Haero Bro - 30 deg tips, no wedges
  • 200x50 tires on (brand new) MBS fivestar hubs (yay!)
  • Some of the worst roads this side of New Orleans

Solutions to try:

  1. De-wedge the rear by 5 degrees (25R / 30 F)
  2. De-wedge the rear by 5 degrees AND wedge the front by 5 degrees (25R / 35F)
  3. New shock blocks all around (red rear, orange front)
  4. Increase preload on all shock blocks to max - see how it feels
  5. Try red blocks in the front
  6. Try orange blocks in the rear
  7. Skate more. Get better. Do ankle/calf/quad exercises every day for that iron grip.
  8. Find better roads
  9. Buy Matrix IIIs or Moon trucks
  10. Swap in the 6" tires and see what happens (still haven’t tried these yet)

While I wait for the PETG wedges to print, I’ll start with #4 - aggressive preload.

Thanks @Venom121212! as always

Super tough to get the calipers in there, but this looks to be about 2-2.25mm preload gap

Gave the loctite an hour to set and about to go for a test ride. :astronaut:

6 Likes

Keep that weight on that front foot and it will help minimize this wobbles. Keep that rear foot stable and light on the pressure. It should act more like an oar/rudder at speed than an ankly foot.

I always picture myself like the silver surfer.

Keep your center of gravity over or even in front of the front trucks and it makes the board want to stay in line better… Like you’re dragging it behind you.

If it’s a well known bump for me, I press down on the deck a little bit right before I hit it so the up flex minimizes the cracks.

The bane of my existence is hitting a big bump while I’m in the middle of a moderate turn and it feels like the board fully shifts underneath me. There’s one in my normal ride and I can not master it. I just turn extra hard and try to hit it closer to perpendicular.

I think #7 is spot on. I can feel myself getting shaky every spring season when I skate less that winter.

5 Likes