Ok, will do. I bought the battery, controller, and enclosure a few years ago and can’t find the confirmation email. I’ll go ahead and get pics. Thanks a lot!
I seem to have lost the black wire. It was only about 5 inches long.
Also as a second question:
My Voyager (BKB) and my VESC tool’s speed information don’t match. Does anyone else have this problem? I ensured both the remote and the VESC tool have the same information.
LingYi ESC.
Black cable could’ve been the antenna
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I saw a few guys reporting similar issues in the Voyager thread and if memory serves a fix was found.
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Looks to be one of the cheaper/ worse LingYi ESCs too.
This is the connector for the antenna itself where that black wire should be plugged in. It would have been a super thin wire with a metal connector at the end. Normally they cover the thing in silicone so it can’t just come off on its own.
Here is what it looks like when removed (ESC died and so I used it for parts)
From what I can tell, that back and forth trace on the PCB is supposed to also act like an antenna but I’m not sure how well it works on its own. For their ESCs if I remeber correctly the LED on the power button will blink if it is not connected to a remote, and then is solid once connected. I could me mixing the two up but if you don’t see a change in that light or on any of the LEDs on the PCB then it isn’t able to connect to the remote.
Also some of the PCB leds should change when given a signal to accelerate or break from the remote. At least the LingYi ESCs I’ve had would do that when I was trouble shooting issues. Not sure if the version you have will do the same
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sheesh, this lingyi is like what, from 2017?
I’m not the one with the connection issue and that entire ESC is trashed anyway. Although the connector itself is one part not ruined that is just what they look like.
It is an MHF connector. The only thing “wrong” is that I didn’t clean off all of the extra silicone on it but that doesn’t affect how well it works. Just keeps it on so you can’t accidentally unplug it.
Stock image of the same connector but with a slightly different outer shell
Product image of one with the same flared base type design.
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ahh maybe it was just the potato camera that threw me off
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Anyone know a good tutorial or settings for low end torque? I can skip out on high rpms but was wondering if low end torque can be adjusted with vesc tool.
Thanks
It is probably because it is very small to the point where even my macro lens struggled to focus on it. Still isn’t even fully in focus in the second picture even though that was the closest I could get to it being in focus.
Raise motor current & lower battery current
Lower drive pulley/gear/sprocket tooth count
Raise wheel pulley/gear/sprocket tooth count
Lower wheel diameter
Go to the gym
Add more motors
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then take a shit to lose that last few extra grams
and ride naked
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What if you were carrying a water bottle?
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Clench
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I try to ride without liquids as the forces generated create a lot of gyroscope-like drag
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Take a shit while launching the board off the line for a marginal boost
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like this?
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