Looks the same as my yzpower one from the circuit design. Mine burnt in virtually the same places but the first time I plugged it in and turned it on without even connecting it to the board. It blew out the fuse, diode, resistor and bridge rectifier as well as god knows what else.
Maybe there’s a weak point on them, either way I got a wate one to replace it and that works fine so far.
What pelican box is a good fit for stormcore? Is a heatsink a good idea for a mtb board if I’m not doing a lot of off roading?
I can’t help you on the pelican question as more details are needed. How big is your battery for starters.
Re the heat sink, they’re always a good idea if you can make them fit. Thermal mgmt is always a factor even with streetboards. The cooler you keep your components the better they will function and the longer they will last. They don’t even need to be complicated or expensive. Last one I used was just a 5mm chunk of 6160 with countersunk screws and a thermal pad and it did a more-than-adequate job.
For the battery I’m going for a 12s6p p42s pack in a pelican box.
Top mounted enclosure thread has lots of dimensions and pics
I mean, personally I’d look for an esc enclosure. The controllers can get pretty warm and having them touching your battery isn’t ideal and can degrade the cells at a much fast rate causing all sorts of problems.
You could likely find your answer here.
Pew pew
Noice snipe 
Does anyone have any tips on easy ways to make sure your phase wire holes are in a good place on the ESC enclosure? I already have the cable gaskets needed for it but I’m not sure where to start on deciding where the wires should come out from.
Here is my current progress complete with temporary hot glue that will be replaced with a suitable epoxy before actually using it.
I bought a variety set of the gaskets so I can either put multiple phase wires through one or have each wire with its own gasket.
Pelican 1200 for sure. I have a battery made by the @TheRef and it has a stormcore 60D with heatsink mounted up top, smart BMS, and 12S7P Lishen 2170LA.
I find individual holes to be a bit cleaner if you have the space, my preferred method is to have the wires fold at least once when the enclosure is closed since it’s more forgiving of changes in length
This works pretty well, only issue is there isn’t space to plug in a USB without removing the ESCs or the heatsink
What connector is that with the 3 wires? I have some similar ones but they’re way too small for the new motors. It looks easier to access the ESC/ put the enclosure on the board by using that extra section of wire too.
Luckily the heat sink is easy to remove from the controller but I’m going to have a hard time getting the phase wires from the motor to reach my enclosure 
For phase leads? MR60 (3.5mm bullet row/flat connector) or MT60 (3.5mm bullet triangle connector) for most motors, there’s a MR30 and MT30 for smaller motors
MT60 > MR60
MT is only good if the phase leads are long enough to be bundled, routing MR is so much neater
I don’t know those Chinese pivot cups. Order yellow and white and see what is best for you.
One of my battery wires keeps coming off. Soldered it 2 times now, applied force and it’s a good solder. When checking again after some weeks it’s fucked. Any tips on how to solder this mofo? Terminals are exposed in the pic, after I’m done soldering I always use electrical tape and gorilla tape on top.
Scratch the surface with sandpaper before soldering. Tin both sides, then stick together.
