sweet, I think there would be a difference though with just puncture verses a screw being screwed in
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You are probably right. It didn’t let me get that deep before it really puffed up on me. I doubt I made it through 1/4 of the pack before it exploded it out.
it’s about the layers getting mangled, it negates the stoba polymer
also I’m curious about puncture with metal vs non-conductive
is the puncturing device causing the shorting or the cell
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Interesting!
One description of the STOBA tech said it was a coating around each cathode particle that would close off lithium ion access to the particle above a certain temperature. Short-circuiting the cell could still cause some of the cell to go into thermal runaway before the rest of the particles closed off?
Or…
The STOBA tech is just a version of a standard polymer separator that shuts off ion flow by partially melting and closing its pores, shutting off the current. This wouldn’t prevent thermal runaway if the cell was pierced and the pos/neg parts short-circuited directly though.
The descriptions of the STOBA are a bit confusing to me.
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take a look at this
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Saw that, still confusing to me. They keep holding up that liquid which seems to indicate a coating for the cathode particles. But that glass container seems to contain particles that could be used to create separator sheets? If so, why not show a sheet sample?
And why the failing battery if each particle is coated?
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The particles are used to make the liquid slurry, from everything I’ve read and seen the cathode layer is coated with the stoba liquid
This shows some of the manufacture process
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Thanks.
So it does cover each particle. Kind of makes it seem that the pack @Mr.Electronicist used didn’t have STOBA tech in place?
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It’s definitely not the reaction I was expecting though it didn’t catch fire 🤷
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Possible that driving the screw in scraped enough coating off and provided a current path
Every factory made cell puncture test ive seen was a straight jab
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IMO, I think we’re grasping at straws now. The particles are microns in size and the coating even thinner. Being able rub against them enough with a screw sliding by and then also shorting the anode and cathode?
But perhaps there are other mechanisms at work here and it’s a true STOBA pack. I’ve seen so many false claims by companies that I often just assume things are false right from the start.
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I’ll just keep the screws away 
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This still seams considerably less catastrophic than a lipo failure. Kind of reminds me how the SPIM08HP cells fail (a non-lipo pouch cell).
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I would buy them lol, turn my 13S into a 15S for the spintend.
hmm would just need one more then…
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lol I would donate for science, otherwise I’m keeping
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I tried the same test with one of the ATL cells from battery hookups 9s hoverboard packs. The cell didn’t even puff up, just smoked a little. I was also able to shoot one with a BB gun, cut the pack open and it still was outputting voltage and could short over 15 amps while looking at the “jelly roll”.
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Oo I just got 2 of those in, mainly for the box, do anything with it yet?
I’m thinking of using it to house all the aux electronics I have in the bike, 12v buck, relays, flashers
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Yeah, I got like 20 and was able to recover enough cells for a 12s9p ebike battery. So far the cells are great with minimal sag at 100 amps. A lot of work to get them apart cleanly though.
Haven’t found any good uses for the aluminum cases yet.
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Sorry to revive this topic, but… I have 3 of these batteries and the robot that goes with them. Well… when Sharp Intellos died, the Silverton Oregon plant dumped the 22 prototypes to a local scrap seller, so I grabbed Proto Type #13, and got down to the 48V Brushless DC motors in the gear box. I have them working with $13 PWM ESC’s from Amazon. But I would like to run them off the batteries, only if you volt meter the + and - slots, you get only ~23 Volts after a second, and I suspect the BMS on board is protecting me from just using it raw. Not sure what the middle 4 terminals do and the board it was plugged into is proprietary as hell so I scrapped it.
Anyone here know how the BMS might be set up to allow me to get my 48.1V? (I have the Sharp Charger as well, and a fresh charge on all 3 of my batteries.)
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To use the stock BMS you need to turn the battery on before you connect it to the circuit. I would use an AS XT-90 to plug it into the vehicle after you have the battery on. It seems large circuit capacitance triggers the short circuit protection in the BMS.
These are the pins you jump to turn the batteries on: