Can I ask here, if someone EU has a demonseed 42" deck laying around or not used yet ?
Before @glyphiks make me discover the 44" one, I was thiking about to make my own 44/45" from the 42" one (like I did here)
I can go almost 12" wide and 47" length and try semi-integrated this time !
EDIT :
Can I ask here, if someone EU has a demonseed 42" deck laying around or not used yet ?
You ship it to me, then I ship back to you in aroud 2 or 3 weeks … OC all cost are for me 
Which is the better choice?
APS 6374 sensored
APS 6374 sensored v2
Turnigy sk8 6374
If there are any better motors in eu, please suggest.
I dont want an sk3 because I dont want to bother with encoder.(I have it on my sk8 but it required quite alot of tweaking before it ran perfectly.)
The APS sensored motors have been a hit or miss for some people.
Do I need an antispark if I use XT90S connectors and a loop key ?
Is the Xt90s connector part of your loop key?
Yes otherwise that would not make much sense, my question was not well formulated
Direct Drive cast offs I have a ton of these spare even with loctite they come loose
Then you’re fine.
There are escs and batteries that use xt90 terminals so I wanted make sure you didn’t replace one of those
I’ll have to put an xt90 on my unity because it has an xt60 on it, is it bad if I put an XT90s ?
I’ve always wondered about that. I’ll let someone else answer
Unity has antispark built in but not sure how that differs from an inline resistor.
The S in xt90 stands for antispark. All xt90s is antispark already. That is why people make loopkeys out of it. You only need 1 of them in the system. On top of that, the unity has a built in antispark. So if you loopkey with xt90s on unity that’s just a ton of antisparks that won’t really be useful. But no harm either.
@Venom121212 the purpose of the antispark is to prevent an in-rush of current on connection (the spark), which can pulse a voltage higher than system allows, kind of like how a boost converter works, but in this case undesirable. The resistor in the XT90S slows this down and prevents it from happening. The unity however, has a mosfet antispark, which means that if the fets are all working properly, then the resistor on the XT90S does nothing, because the unity will not power on after connection anyway, no electricity flows. Ultimately, the antispark mechanism is done by the mosfets turning on when you trigger the unity. So put all the antispark before that you want, but the job is still done by the mosfets at the end.
Nah man those are my enclosure bolts 
It’s all good tho I got sorted out
I sure hope it’s not bad, I’ve got 3 or 4 of them in my vanguard build, not including my loopkey 
Why don’t people just wire an equivalently rated resistor to a switch and call it a day?
What makes the Xt90s so magical?
Quadundency
Not following in the footsteps of Brian when it comes to redundancy, but when it comes to water proofing… I’m on board (heh)
It was the only ones I had
The XT90S is special because it is a 2 stage connector. The resistor hits first, letting power through slowly, (this only takes a fraction of a second to charge), then the main body of the connector hits, at which point voltage has been equalized by the initial resistor section and now full power can flow. Wiring a resistor to a switch would mean full power goes through the resistor, it’ll blow in a second. However: you could have a 2 stage switch, 1st stage connecting through resistor, second stage connecting full power. But the switch would have to go between 1 and 2 very fast.
Got it. So don’t plug an Xt90s in slow motion.
The speed doesn’t matter, the resistor and main barrel is linked together. What would be bad is: leaving it partially plugged in, then power would flow only through the first section. Or 2: plugging it in so fast that the resistor did not have time to balance the power. You would have to connect it within a few ms. So you’d have to be like superman or something.
Well explained, thanks