Super weird
Direct drive or Bowden?
On DD it’s super easy, just heat the nozzle up, pull the filament out load the new one, pufe about 2cm and voila. Process should take less than 30sec
You can do it while printing even with the M600 command (*doesn’t work on all printers)
Bowden, so while it’s not that much harder, threading the filament in takes a while, and it generally takes much more than 2cm on mine to clear out the old color.
I recommend getting rid of the ptfe tube and make a system where it still runs smoothly but is easy to change on the fly
1 Like
Got the guts together to finally try TPU - realistically it was disorganisation in my way but a win is a win. Added the printed extruder mod for the ender 3 to get the PTFE right to the extruder gear and it worked fine, it was 96A though so maybe that helped.
One question though, does anyone using prusaslicer have the magic combination of settings that makes the print head not move over free space? I set it to avoid perimeter crossings, and told it it can use detours up to 300% of the travel length, but it still walked right over them. Normally wouldn’t be a huge issue but I had retraction disabled to avoid flexing and unflexing the Bowden-extruder-hot end system, so I’ve got some big chonky stringing across open areas
2 Likes
I believe this is called combing in the Cura slicer? I’m not sure what the prusaslicer equivalent would be though
2 Likes
Does anyone know what could be causing my slicer or 3d printer to keep messing up my sd cards? At a certain point, I have to format the sd card for everything to work again, otherwise my computer won’t pick it up, which is really weird (using a Ender3 v2, cura 4.10.0, and a Samsung sd c ard, though it’s happened on earlier versions of this slicer on another sd card.)
Did you format the and card with FAT32?
Also how big is the SD card? If it’s over 8gb (maybe 16?) It doesn’t really work.
Did you also copy paste the contents of the original SD card that came with your printer onto your current Samsung one?
Yet, FAT32 each time. It’s a 32gb evo. That might be why then haha
I didn’t copy anything over, I just started using it.
1 Like
Are you safely ejecting the SD card every time?
I know the “safely remove hardware” thing in windows is pretty much vestigial at this point for most things (when’s the last time you lost data or borked something by not safely ejecting it?), but I’ve heard that 3d printer SD cards with text files (both config and gcode) are extra-susceptible to corruption this way for some reason.
4 Likes
Yep, I actually get super paranoid if I don’t safely eject it lol. Although it’s been done through the slicer, not the Windows’s safe eject. And afaik there’s no way to safely eject from a printer, right?
My ender3 has an option to dismount sd.
1 Like
Hmm I might’ve always just overlooked it then. I’ll have a look in the morning
I’ve just pre-ordered new prusa XL
https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-xl-2/
I really dig the tool change option. If this one serves me as good as mk3, I can’t see how it won’t become a new standard in 3d printing. It is a pricey peace of hardware, ecpecially 5 tool version.
6 Likes
Started on the plan to build a little support for these lads, looking for some sanity checks. Prints are done in PETG, I can do TPU as well if the flex would be better for impacts but I don’t think it would do as well with the small features.
I’m trying to keep clear of the bigish inductor on the near side in that pic. Any other obvious pitfalls to keep in mind?
1 Like
V1 I completely botched the dimensions so it’s irrelevant, V2 just had its supports removed now
edit: aaaand I made a mess of v2 as well. Good thing it’s like a 20 minute print. I made a large block and carved out a pocket to form the legs, and forgot that a drawing from the bottom would be flipped when it was right side up.
Also I haven’t checked the e-steps on my printer but it seems the dimensional accuracy is way off for models this small? I took some of the measurements for V2 by physically cutting down V1 after it was printed, but after it printed it (V2) came out too small so it seems the printer is being difficult
Edit 2:
V3 looks better and indeed fits faairly well, but as a result of bad measurements or bad machine cal the radius of the capacitor’s seat is just a little too small.
2 Likes
Why not print it standing up? Should use less support and give you a much smoother curve for the cap.
2 Likes
ah I hadn’t thought of that. When I run it through Prusa it actually generates a slower print, with what looks like more support material. When I paint on custom supports it’s still a minute or two slower, though this might be to do with more Z moves rather than more material.
You’re right on the curve, but I don’t think it’s that important
Success! Sort of… Looks like the design fits capacitors for 2 phases, and I need a different one for the third that sits on top of the connectors. I’m also working on a support for the corner of the board that’s otherwise unsupported
4 Likes
