I’m not sure I ever wanna give those up. The beta version seems to be working really well, i’m very happy with prusaslicer for now.
I’m pretty happy with how I have petg tuned now, soon it will be time to experiment with TPU 
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Ha it’s probably an illusion due to all the warped prints sitting on top and the bevel on the edge. The glass itself is mostly flat, and the new glass bed is perfectly flat since it’s thick enough not to be affected by the clips. The first layers get laid down fine, and I don’t have any fancy mesh bed leveling or anything of that sort. I’m starting to wonder whether it’s a temperature sensor difference, I’m curious if the two printers match up, but I’ve got no way to test that theory. Other than that I could drop cooling to 0% until 1mm or so, but I’m worried about elephant’s foot.
Understandable, personally I just love the amount of tuning it puts at your fingertips. Also makes it really easy to tune new filaments. Honestly I’m pretty sure prusaslicer configs can imported to super slicer and vice-versa so it can be used for tuning and then if you really want paint on you could just import the config.
Or you could just continue using what works for you haha. What I’m describing seems pretty roundabout now that I’m writing it all out.
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weird issue
i was trying to use kiri moto (online slicer) and for some reason my prints keep starting at 15mm in the air
any help how to solve?
Print something else with another slicer that’s not what you’re trying to print. If it prints successfully then it’s something to do with the slicing of kiri moto
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So I figured out the issue with my setup with the help of Reddit. Apparently heat wasn’t being transferred from the stock bed to the glass bed well due to the textured surface, so it just wasn’t getting up to temp, even with a long preheat. I removed the stock bed and placed the glass straight on the magnetic sticker, and lo and behold no more adhesion problems. Now I just need to figure out a way for the glass bed to not fuse onto the sticker (my initial reason for keeping the stock build surface on), or remove the sticker entirely.
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tried slicing with stock ender 3 settings (i have a cr10 pro) and it printed (not perfectly but it did print - i still need to adjust settings)
I know these inserts at the top of the post are not for plastics, but how bad would it be if I used these with some epoxy instead of the inserts pictured below?
I want to use these for mounting a 3D printed top mounted ESC enclosure’s top lid to it’s sidewalls. I would say that it doesn’t need to handle much torque, but it still has to survive the removal of loctite 243ed screws. Would it be able to handle it?
If the inserts at the top of the post wouldn’t be up for the job then I can just do a quick redesign and use locknuts instead, but I love how it looks now so I would avoid that if this will be robust enough too.
I’d say it’s worth a shot. Print a test part with a couple holes and epoxy some inserts in, and see how they fare.
As the saying goes, the only difference between fucking around and doing research is documentation.
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Lmao I love this saying
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Semi-serious question, but what do you do when you’ve got stuff you want to print, but the loaded filament is the wrong color? Do you just switch it out, purge the hot end, and put the filament in, or do you build up a backlog of things to print in that color, and then switch it out once it hits critical mass?
I’ve got one thing I need to print in orange, and another thing I need to print in black, but my printer’s currently loaded with white. They’re all short 2 hour prints under 10g, so part of me feels like it’s not worth switching them out and using excess filament to purge the old color, but I’ve also been sitting on them for two weeks now since I haven’t had anything else to print in either color.
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Idk it’s only a few mm of filament to purge so I would just switch whenever I need
And it only takes like 1.5 mins to switch total
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Huh I’ve had different experiences with purging, it’d bleed over for a few meters of printed length before it clears up. I’ve had several gradients in parts from that in the past and that’s usually fine since it’s not structural, but sadly the things I need printing at the moment need to be cosmetically fine.
Meters?? bruh that’s a lot lol
Exactly! It’s super noticeable when going to white, but it’ll show up for around 10 layers or so of a print.
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You ever changed your nozzle?
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Never, which probably explains a lot of issues but at least in this case it’s a brand new printer. The purge gradients were on my old printer, which I never changed but there’s not a whole lot of time on it.
I mean if you’ve printed thousands of hours maybe the inside of the nozzle is getting worn out and a little bit too big, idk seems a bit odd to me
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I think it’s a little worn, but it has less than 700 hours on it so it can’t have been that bad. Only PLA, no special or particularly abrasive filaments either.
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