I demand a detail view of the locking mechanism. 
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Haha, happy to share. It’s a rectangular cross-section double cantilever snap-fit design. So here’s the mechanism -
View of the slider rails:
Full close
Full open (captured)
Before install
Small detent provides a positive indication of full open (captured)
M3 hex nut pockets and cable routing hole. Once the XT90 Male is installed, the nuts should be captured.
Sliding piece has the two finger concavities for a good grip.
The fit is quite tight on all parts, so we’ll see how the assembly goes. I’ve already made a few loopkeys with the dimensions for the XT90 male and female pockets, so I know those are spot on.
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Damn, this is some spotless design work, very nice.
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Are the files available to download? This looks awesome
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It will be when the design is mature. But def still a work in progress.
V1 on the left in PETG. As I guessed, the details were way too small. I got carried away with a ton of tiny features. Turns out even at 0.10mm layer height, you can’t have 0.10mm gaps and details.
It did go together, which was a success, but wayyy too much friction to effective open and close. Everything was so tight it just stuck in place. Very robust, but not usable. Also, it required some weird print orientations and lots of support.
V2 on the right. I retooled it to eliminate roofs/ceilings that might require support, and so it could be printed laying down to maximize strength in the cantilever slider/snap arms (i.e. horizontal, full-length layers).
It’s got 0.20mm clearance gaps between all parts and slides verrry nicely, very satisfyingly forward and back click-slide-click. Everything is a little thicker. No support required. Maybe just a brim.
V3 TBD. Will probably tighten up the gaps a bit to 0.15mm to see if that provides the perfect clearance. Need to add back a full-open indicator somewhere. Need to deepen the XT90 pockets. Might add a finger ring - I forgot how hard it is to pull XT90s apart.
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I made an adapter to use the Newbee Pentagrams on the Apex Jump Drives. The tolerances are tight so it might need some sanding depending on your printer.
Pentagram Jump Drive Adapter.stl (346.3 KB)
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Got some skinny 5mm spacers for Trampa Superstar hubs, including the Solidworks files if you want to modify them as well (not tested yet, just made them)
5mm Superstar Spacer.STL (2.2 MB)
5mm Superstar Bearing Cover.STL (634.6 KB)
5mm Superstar Bearing Cover.SLDPRT (170.0 KB)
5mm Superstar Spacer.SLDPRT (762.5 KB)
Edit: SPACER DOES NOT FIT
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Does anyone have a file for Haero Bro skull stomp pads?
To run wires under feet instead of over bindings.
Forgot to post it in this thread but I made a simple 1/2" → 5/8" adapter socket that fits into a standard skate tool so you can tighten the larger axle nut on 12mm axles (matrix II, etc.)
12mm nut adapter.stl (80.9 KB)
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Anyone have ideas for a compact latching system for standard rachet straps? Best i could come up with, repetable resistance printed in tpu, held together by heat set nails. Its okay but working on 3d printed heel straps because, well, why not.
If someone needs more pictures in order for criticism let me know!
Wanted to use pla as the spring force but cant come up with a system that is locking, yet releasing.
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I would use Pet-g. Definitly more pictures will help:)
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I landed on 85a tpu kettle bell spring things that sit in the circle pocket below the latch. One thing im still struggling with is getting resistance in the adjuster. Id like to have it so its not flapping about when riding, but so far tpu rachet straps, pla rachet system, and tpu springs. I have a few ideas im still working out but results are suprisingly promising for my purpose.
I landed on a standard rachet strap design because it engages all of the rachet strap tooth so theres less chance of failure.
Edit: hopefully will have full 3d printed heel straps, minus fasteners, avaliable to download within a few weeks once they actually get used on jumps and tested for strength.
Edit 2: i solved the adjuster flapping about by adding shock blocks that it can be pressed down into to keep it from flapping. Finishing the semi adjustable strap as well for the other side.
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Its easy enough to have the system snap like a zip tie, but somehow the resistance needs to be released.
Very close!
Comfort insert too!
Testing is going well. Handles grass, roads, and wheelis. Very comfortable i garuantee youd be surprised. The ninja flex tpu is like a shoe sole. Center mounted batteries might have a clearance issue but mine just fits and my battery takes up the length between bindings. Will have files for download but would prefer to wait until they are fully tested for safety. For refrence - 250lbs intermediate rider with small to medium jumps and lots of wheelies. Not many slams but some here and there. Please, feedback is welcome.
Printed one for the back. Everything is solid. Tweaking the design a bit.
Took a nasty spill sliding some pine needles… the board came with me. The heel straps prove strong! Literally did a front flip. Not much broke.
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Maybe asa or abs it will be more robust instead of PLA, you can use it also for spring. I have nice results with it in my project of siletblocks.
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My printer is rather limted, but ive had good results with my current design. Seems robust enough for heel straps.
Would curious as to how to impliment petg or asa or abs or whatever into a rachet system that can take abuse. I dont solid springs are as resilient to use as an actual spring. But it would certainly be appealing.
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Hi My name is Alberto!
- Boundmotor GX-16 Mount Connector V
Boundmotor GX-16 Mount Connector V1 by darkstar826 - Thingiverse
- Domo Truck Risers
Domo Truck Risers by darkstar826 - Thingiverse
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weipusleeve.stl (425.7 KB)
For anyone using weipu sf12 with the stock silicone dust cover. In my experience the dust cover tends to pop off very easily. Originally i designed a TPU cover for it that worked great, but I suck at printing TPU so I designed this one that can just be added to the existing cover. Seems to work great on the bench!
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Will defo try this, mine pop off alllll the time.
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Let me know how it goes for you! It should be ok just to slip over and be done with it, i added a little bit of silicone between the two parts tho so they should never come apart