Given you are into heavy DIY and have those old cloud wheels, I’m wondering what you think about battle hardening them with a printed insert and epoxy?
Edit: I think I featured it, still receive power from spinning motors so still getting remote command.
I will sell these OG cloud wheels on EBay.
Will sell the red ones later on as “used”
Not comfortable putting it up for sale here due to shit hub spokes.
so you hope to prey upon someone who doesn’t know? why not take me an @Movation’s idea where they could actually be safely used?
Gone out shopping, will read that link when I get back.
Great minds…
Since I bought this dual XT-90 plug that was done back to front, I had to change the XT-90 plugs on the VESC MKII so it goes in.
Fits in fine
Tinned the charger port inline fuse.
Hmmm, black OG cloudwheels has the same thane appearance as my discovery.
Will keep that set and use it for front wheels after I fill the gaps in the spoke with resin.
what do you think about the 3d printed insert? I feel like it would have a higher strength and require less resin. My idea is that the printed insert would attach to the @Boardnamics pulleys as well as printed copies of them.
I think if we knew the dimensions to copy of those cores and press that in it would save a lot of strain compared to a pin pressed against the spoke.
yeah I had the idea because they use the “legit” ABEC core so I figure it has been perfectly modeled already and I could just download a flywheel push fit pulley model glue that sumbitch in there and call it a day. Not that the clone core hasn’t been accurately modeled as well but you get the idea.
@Brad sorry about mucking around in your build thread
Not a problem Fosterqc.
Spokes in OG Cloudwheel is not legit ABEC, it is actually thinner than genuine abecs, I had to put heat shrinks on my perfect sized ABEC pulley spokes to fit it into the OG Cloudwheels.
Yeah putting in printed inserts would save a lot of resins being used.
The inserts would ideally be ribbed along the sides, so the resin can hold onto it more firmly.
I think I will just put that on the back burner for now.
I can try to get a design done and printed in the next few weeks I am planning on finally getting some ABS but might upgrade to a DD system first.
Ok this is the part where my heart races a little.
I have worked out where to put the inline fuse.
I cut off both charger wires and isolated with electrical tape. I cut off both wires instead of desoldering it, that way I only need to worry about soldering with live wires.
Had a length of the postive charging wire cut as well so the other end can reach the inline fuse.
Will desolder the last bit of wires off the terminals before soldering on
Red wire goes to the middle, black wire to the side.
I suggest taking off the heat-shrink of the dual XT-90 to check how good the solder job on it is. Some people have found it not up to spec for the vibration-intensive application of esk8.
Trying to solder tiny wire and connectors is harder than I thought, either not hot enough or too hot in such a short time…
I will have to purchase another one and do it again.
Discovered a minor problem, the hole in the enclosure for the charger is actually about 0.2 mm too small, will have to enlarge it with a drill…FML…
Will do that tomorrow arvo after I buy another charger port. Forgot to plug in the charging jack to help hold the pin in place and prevent overheating…
Played around with it (pratice) anyway and I feel that I got this.
Got home and did the fuse line.
No fuse in the holder, no chance of short when doing the charger port
Touched negative and postive naked wires, no sparks at all!
7.5 amp fuse rated for 58V
Instead of drilling a bigger hole for the charging port, I opted to buy a cheap dremel and got the hole big enough to push the charging port through
Now I just need to wait for Metr dual to arrive in the mail…
As a fellow builder-in-an-apartment, I feel you. My list of tools keeps getting bigger though. I’d say the dremel has by far been my most used and useful tool. You made a good purchase!
why not fuse the negative of charge port + antispark switch would open a significant amount of options.