I got a new job thats taking up all my time. So here are the 3D print files for you all to enjoy
(See end of 1st post)
I created a mechanical slide switch using the AS150 connector for my build and wondered if there is enough interest for such a product. This was inspired by deckoz, but the CAD was designed by me entirely from scratch.
I preferred this over the standard loopkey because:
- You can’t loose it
- Also has anti-spark features
- It looks better than an ugly loop key
- 150a continuous. (Technically 90a since it connects to xt90 connectors for the battery and esc)
- It’s “bulletproof” and won’t die like FET based anti-sparks
- Very small form factor, clean enclosure mounting
- Enclosure mounting
- 3D printed with PETG
Feel free to discuss the pros/cons of this design compared to others on the market and feel free to vote in the poll on how much you would pay for one if offered commercially.
3D print files:
lid.stl (258.9 KB) slider.stl (298.2 KB) base.stl (768.7 KB)
Yes I get that as DIY’ers, we can all go buy the connectors yourself and 3D print it. That’s totally fine!
This poll is for a “plug and play” commercial product. For those that don’t have the tools/skills/time/lazy to do it themselves. There was a commercial “pre-made loopkey” I saw a while ago but I can’t find the link. This is exactly that but with a cleaner product imo.
That being said, would you buy this and how much would you pay for it? (price includes shipping)
- 3D printed PETG 100% infill
- 10awg high strand silicon wire
- xt90 connectors soldered on both ends
- 3x m3 screws for the lid and mounting holes
- Less than $19
So the wire slides in and out of the casing when you close the switch? Concerned for wear on the wire sleeve at all?
I like the idea but personally don’t see that much of an advantage over loopkeys. That’s why I wouldn’t pay much for it.
IMO loopkeys are easier to pull in an emergency and you can conveniently integrate a fuse into them as well. Overall it is much more compact and simple.
Looks cool, but would the switch be at risk of snapping after fatigue? I don’t know much about the properties of petg through fatiguing stress.
yes it does. I’m not concerned because 10awg wire sleves are really thick. And I’ve also rounded out the area that’ll be scraping.
Good observation though and I’ll be reporting back on how my prototype holds up
From what I’ve researched, PETG is pretty good with that respect. However, I’m not pro enough in CAD to do FEA analysis on the part. I will report back after I’ve ridden a few thousand km’s on my prototype
What I want to add is that there are definitely reasons to use xt150s instead of xt90s as a switch and this design is an elegant way of doing so. Just dangling wires with bullets isn’t nice.
I was hoping for a second that you had made a anti-spark switch that actually has a linear actuator push the connection into place. I’m quite surprised no one did that before Gamer43’s design came along.
I like it. But I doubt I would pay for it.
I thought about this many times. I lack 3d modeling skills tho.
Really like that, only remains to find a way to make it completely waterproof, shouldn’t be that hard.
You could seal the non moving side with silicone, and make a second chamber where the wire does a bend and exits at the same side as the non moving one
Perhaps a small loop that allows for the wire to curl up inside the enclosure? That way any external sliding is eliminated.
You described exactly what I had in mind, way better and in fewer words
Ahh, I see what you’re saying. However with 10 guage wire, any “bend” will take up a lot more space. Especially if you want the entire module enclosed, the box would be very big and bulky. It would be harder to accommodate different enclosure sizes/space
Perhaps if you removed the sheathing on the part of the wire inside the switchbody so there is more flex in less space, and sealed the exit hole to the sheathing on the rest of the wire.
You could add a resistor sticking out from the side of one connector, now when you close the circuit the resistor should make contact before the actual connection does. And you would have real pre charging (no spark inside eating the connector).
Hey @murdomeek, is there any progress on this? Have you been using the switch? Are you happy with it? Is it available in any way?
I may need one of those. I only lost one loopkey so far but you don’t want to know how many times I went out riding and forgot to take the key. This would save me a lot of time riding up and down in the elevator.
(I’ll need to figure out my remote next. )
@janpom sorry, I didnt see this.
The switch is still running great after a summer of covid riding
The only changes I would suggest is to use PETG filament for extra longevity. But the PLA has been holding up fine.
I’m not planning to pursue this as I recently got a new job that is taking my time.
PM me if you want the .stl files and I can send them to you
as150 has that resistor built into the connector. Similar to XT90s