its on the water…what do you use to look at battery level while riding? i guess all I need is a volt meter display on the board.
I don’t remember if did the cheap shipping or fast…
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Regular shipping took 3 weeks or so for me. Are you talking about checking the board battery level? I use my phone to check with the Vesc app.
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I just bought 2 more, the seller/ maker Kman was very responsive and helpful, but he is busy. He is a member here but I’m not outing him as he prefers other contact methods.
He is moving away from Etsy , I have asked if I can post the link he gave me, or an updated one. Artem and I bought the last 3 he had last night.
As soon as I hear back from Kman I’ll post a link to where they can be purchased. When buying you need information on your controller, I’m sure this is obvious to 99% of you .
I’m very happy to have a new one and a spare, my thumb is at 30% function from breaking it 3 times. So for me trigger is so much safer
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Hey guys, I wanted to drop quick update on the split remote. I’ve been working on it since i dunno how long its prob been more than a month or 2 and I tried to squeeze in as much info as possible into the video 
To be honest its been a bumpy ride but I’m satisfied with overall design. Some of the things I forgot to mention in the video that the position of the magnets are crucial and with a constrained elements like repeatable and consistent SMD hall sensor position, top and bottom fixed pin for the levers(in this case its an m2.5 bolt) makes the reading nice and steady. Values kinda surprised me but it is probably because hall sensor is always in the field of one or the other magnet.
I had to implement a calibration for the hall sensors because its crucial to know exact resting values of the levers as well as the min max values. It is very easy, the front led is leading you what to do at one given time. I will probably shoot a separate video to explain it which will not be a longer than a minute.
So far tested the signal and its just like in the trigger remote, braking has the priority over the acceleration so as long as there activity on the braking lever it cancels the acceleration lever. That is why I’m giving the braking lever about a 1mm slack so you don’t accidentally activate it and cancel the acceleration. It is about 3-4mm now but I will fine tune it in the code.
There are some kinks here and there but It is %99 finished, I just need to refine some parts of the code and adjust some of the tolerances in the 3D model etc…
PS. sorry for my English in the video its not my first language and some of things I say may not make sense, its partly because I’m thinking one thing and saying another but I think it is in level of common sense 
Next update will be hopefully light+ related. I’m waiting for SAMD21, STM32 and RP2040 chips to arrive. I have the designs and pcbs ready so I cant test them all and depending on the chip availability and best match I will choose one go with it.
There also another update which I’m not going to mention right now because its too vague at this point but depending on how it goes I will share more.
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This looks great! Can you tell me what happens if the remote loses signal? Does it send no command or the last command?
Apologies if you said it in the video, I’m at dinner and can’t turn the volume on 
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ahah enjoy same thing happens in all of the the z.motes. Receiver has a neutral value so in case the signal is lost (which I’ve never experienced before) or accidentally turned it off receiver immediately goes to neutral like no brake no acceleration.
Just imagine receiver is hanging on the last acceleration value in case of a remote failure. you will be falling into oblivion Nah this would be a death trap so yea neutral is the way to go for me.
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I don’t have to imagine. Unfortunately this is exactly what the maytech split trigger does 
and is why I needed to ask
And I can confirm, it is shit-your-pants level scary
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Super cool dude.
I love the detailed update.
The amount of effort and attention you pay to these really fills me with confidence!!!
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And it’s not even like it’s a rare occurence 
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I mean, for me it kinda is. I’ve isolated it to 2 spots down town where it is repeatable drops. Everywhere else it has been solid. Definitely excited to see how this one reacts at the same places.
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I’ve got places in town where my bluetooth earphones drop out, I do not want to try a dodgy remote there. Haven’t had any issues there with a mini remote or VX2 though
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Two questions: First does the hardware toggle power switch ever cause issues? It looks kind of scary if it got bumped and switched the remote off, but I assume people would be complaining if it was a problem. Have you looked at a soft button that has to be held down for a couple of seconds to switch?
Second, is the large button on the thumbwheel a dead man switch? Couldn’t find that mentioned on the listing
@Zyb that video on the split trigger is really interesting, and the english is great
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@Zyb Any more updates on the duel trigger version, very keen to try it out. Also looking to make some shells, from wood. Care to share the model for the shell?
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Are there any slew rate limits or deadbands implemented on the throttle (I know you mentioned a deadband on the brake lever), or is the user control input being passed unmolested to the ESC?
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Thank you very much I’m just trying to make them as safe as possible
@mr.shiteside
Switches went thru a revision as well I’ve had with high resistance ones that were obviously faulty but the ones I use are solid. And you need a firm press in order switch it off so a soft bump is not a problem.
Yup, I use deadman switches in all of the remotes but you can deactivate it from the menu. you just need to power cycle the remote by holding one of the buttons, that gets you into the menu and from there you can change the status of the dead mans switch.
@Adstars
I’m still working on it. So far its good but I’m vigorously testing the triggers and i was able to break one of them. Which is a big NO It’s not a big deal but basically the stoppers for the triggers are fragile when printed out using a resin printer. I modified it and now using the acutal pcb to constrain their movement range. throttle one needs one more testing cycle then I need to test it outdoors. Theres a bit more work towards it.
Yea I can share the .stl when im finished as I’m still tweaking some of the tolerances.
@b264
For the dual trigger I have to do some kind of tiny deadband or use a button of some sort. Because imagine you have 1 output which is PPM but you have 2 inputs, braking and go command. I have to somehow decide which one goes thru PPM signal. There can be numerous ways or methods, some include braking priority which seems to be the popular method. With this method on each coding cycle you can poll of the braking values and if its below the threshold you allow the go command trigger to take over. Now if i don’t apply any deadband to the braking trigger what could happen is, imagine you are going full speed and for whatever reason a slight change on the braking lever reading can cut out your go command in an instant which is incredibly dangerous.
If theres a better way of handling this I’m open to suggestions but there has to be some kind of factor to determine which trigger is active and by the way that deadband is very tiny like 1mm(0.03inches) travel which is hardly noticeable.
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I’m not sure if you have used the Maytech V2 remote or not, but it handles it perfectly. I’ve never had a single time where the brake overrode the throttle command when I didn’t want it to. No idea how they do it, but it just works. IMO it is the proper thing as well.
It does seem that the deadband for the brake trigger would have to be in the remote. But presumably when the brake deadband is not exceeded, the throttle could be sent as-is without any or with (very, very minimal) deadband filtering applied. ?
I’ve been holding my breath for a long time waiting for a signal reliable split trigger remote… I’m not going to jump the gun but I have a very good feeling about you friend.
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