And it’s not even like it’s a rare occurence 
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I mean, for me it kinda is. I’ve isolated it to 2 spots down town where it is repeatable drops. Everywhere else it has been solid. Definitely excited to see how this one reacts at the same places.
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I’ve got places in town where my bluetooth earphones drop out, I do not want to try a dodgy remote there. Haven’t had any issues there with a mini remote or VX2 though
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Two questions: First does the hardware toggle power switch ever cause issues? It looks kind of scary if it got bumped and switched the remote off, but I assume people would be complaining if it was a problem. Have you looked at a soft button that has to be held down for a couple of seconds to switch?
Second, is the large button on the thumbwheel a dead man switch? Couldn’t find that mentioned on the listing
@Zyb that video on the split trigger is really interesting, and the english is great
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@Zyb Any more updates on the duel trigger version, very keen to try it out. Also looking to make some shells, from wood. Care to share the model for the shell?
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Are there any slew rate limits or deadbands implemented on the throttle (I know you mentioned a deadband on the brake lever), or is the user control input being passed unmolested to the ESC?
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Thank you very much I’m just trying to make them as safe as possible 
@mr.shiteside
Switches went thru a revision as well I’ve had with high resistance ones that were obviously faulty but the ones I use are solid. And you need a firm press in order switch it off so a soft bump is not a problem.
Yup, I use deadman switches in all of the remotes but you can deactivate it from the menu. you just need to power cycle the remote by holding one of the buttons, that gets you into the menu and from there you can change the status of the dead mans switch.
@Adstars
I’m still working on it. So far its good but I’m vigorously testing the triggers and i was able to break one of them. Which is a big NO It’s not a big deal but basically the stoppers for the triggers are fragile when printed out using a resin printer. I modified it and now using the acutal pcb to constrain their movement range. throttle one needs one more testing cycle then I need to test it outdoors. Theres a bit more work towards it.
Yea I can share the .stl when im finished as I’m still tweaking some of the tolerances.
@b264
For the dual trigger I have to do some kind of tiny deadband or use a button of some sort. Because imagine you have 1 output which is PPM but you have 2 inputs, braking and go command. I have to somehow decide which one goes thru PPM signal. There can be numerous ways or methods, some include braking priority which seems to be the popular method. With this method on each coding cycle you can poll of the braking values and if its below the threshold you allow the go command trigger to take over. Now if i don’t apply any deadband to the braking trigger what could happen is, imagine you are going full speed and for whatever reason a slight change on the braking lever reading can cut out your go command in an instant which is incredibly dangerous.
If theres a better way of handling this I’m open to suggestions but there has to be some kind of factor to determine which trigger is active and by the way that deadband is very tiny like 1mm(0.03inches) travel which is hardly noticeable.
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I’m not sure if you have used the Maytech V2 remote or not, but it handles it perfectly. I’ve never had a single time where the brake overrode the throttle command when I didn’t want it to. No idea how they do it, but it just works. IMO it is the proper thing as well.
It does seem that the deadband for the brake trigger would have to be in the remote. But presumably when the brake deadband is not exceeded, the throttle could be sent as-is without any or with (very, very minimal) deadband filtering applied. ?
I’ve been holding my breath for a long time waiting for a signal reliable split trigger remote… I’m not going to jump the gun but I have a very good feeling about you friend.
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FINALLY, AIR!
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Yup, I have it. I actually had to combine evolve R2 and maytech shape and add some organic elements to make it fit to my hand. It works in the same mentality in fact their deadband is much bigger than mine(it is adjustable in the code) But even then it is so small you cant even notice it unless i tell you theres a dead band and the fact that you didnt notice it until now shows how insignificant it is to notice.
@b264
Deadband is in the code and yes both values actually being sent as is from the reading no delays no nothing.
@Venom121212
Thank you, well It’s still in progress but considering it has the same electronics as the other z.motes it should be good signal wise.
Over the years I Iearned if you have %1 dropout in the signal then you %100 have a mistake/error somewhere along the line of signal trace integrity, grounding issue, return path issue, bad power supply. For a basic pcb design which does not include wireless communication even a close to fatal mistakes wont be noticeable and things will work no problem.
But with NRF’s no chance, they are incredibly picky and one mistake and you have a product with pleeenty of dropouts in your hands. So when I test the signal even %1 dropout is not acceptable. If i see a failed transmission even ONCE which happens like 20> times in a second I just do not ship that remote. It never happened in the final product but happened many many many times during development But if everything is ok signal is just unbreakable, put it near plenty of bluetooth devices, near a wifi router, hold its antenna or touch electronics with bare hands, signal is %100 there. That is what im aiming when i build these remotes.
Anyway once I’m done with physical aspect of the triggers It should be good to go.
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Thanks for being transparent and sharing, this stuff is great
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just got my remotes in the mail. Very nicely packaged with attention to detail. the quality has improved from the one im using to the ones i just got,clear refinement, BRAVO! thank you
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Yup, excellent vendor all around.
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Dude. Be sure to double check your battery polarity. All the batteries I got I had to flip the little connector around for it to match the remote.
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he put a helpfull note and an example wire,serious idiotproofing going on here, i love it
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You are gonna love the lights dude
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