Lost my slave unit. I know this is a long shot, but thought I would see if anyone had one sitting around in their parts bin.
I’ve got a pair I will sell.
Is VESC-x same thing as focbox 1.7. ? Which is what proto has.
And I should say I think it’s the much earlier generation?
VESC-X is FOCBOX 1.3
There is FOCBOX 1.3, 1.6, 1.7, Unity
1.3 was called VESC-X until some trademark shit went down and it was renamed.
Btw. Having just swapped focbox in a proto. Your gonna end up reusing the original base case as getting it out is a pain in the ass. So you’ll either end up reusing the thermal interface pad which is often advised against. I did it. Then I went back in and used a 2mm thick minus 8 pad from grizzly. Anecdotally it ran cooler.
So what are the differences between 1.3 and 1.7. Is it just a firmware update
What’s wrong with transferring pads? I popped my FocBoxes into a 3DS heatsink so I put the old pads on upside down using some tweezers
1.3 -> 1.6 had some minor design changes and the re branding, 1.6 -> 1.7 had an improved CAN chip so it wouldn’t blow out
So I have to take it apart and look for something printed on the pcb to see if I have the shitty model that will blow
Not necessarily, the older model is fine as long as they are connected to the same power source and the CAN cable stays in place
Version 1.7 means the CAN chip won’t blow if one ESC is powered before/without the other one being powered.
As long as you solder the power wires together for the two ESCs, this will never happen with 1.3 or 1.6. Using XT-60 or XT-90 connectors is when it can happen. You need to plug them all in and cable-tie them together BEFORE turning on the power with a loopkey or antispark. If CANBUS is not connected, 1.6 and 1.7 are functionally identical.
I have 2 brand new version 1.6 that have been in my tool box for quiet some time. I didn’t want to possible sell or use faulty hardware that would kill either me or my kids
Shipping them to me is probably the safest bet
LoL jk (kinda)
I don’t want ya ta get hurt. I better hold on to em for safe keeping
I am not a contributing member of society, you should send them to me so nothing bad happens
If I do I’m keeping the money clip. Thats gonna be the dealbreaker
Seemed the attitude was they deform in application to make good contact. And can harden with age to where they don’t work as well when reapplied.
Source: summary of my read of many internet opinions. No science.
For me tho the minus 8 pads did seem to cool better. I’m going to try the experiment again on another proto. And try to gather better before and after data.
But it’s easy to source the minus 8 so doesn’t hurt to use it.
I was thinking the shift would make it not sit right so I was hoping that flipping would make it better (FETs get clean flat material, sink gets mostly flat material) but if it’s an easy swap I guess I will change them out, got a link?