[WTB] Flipsky 6374 Motor Rotor / Can / Bell / Housing only

I need a replacement motor can. Once upon a time I hit the motor on a rock and now the shaft has side-to-side play. It wobbles and grinds the magnets into the stator and makes some awful noises.

If anyone has a busted motor laying around with a working 6374 can, I would really appreciate it. I don’t want to throw away an otherwise perfectly usable motor. If not, it’s new motor time.



Green loctite can’t fix that?

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I’ve had some funky shaft issues. Would need an arbor press & way to check concentricity to see if its actually salvageable. Shaft may be slightly bent instead of just loose.

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Gotta remove the shaft and/or align everything. Not as easy as loctite.

Good tip on checking the shaft itself. I think I’ll do this

I’ll take it apart, but my money is on an oval’ed shaft hole. Shaft is 420 hardened steel supported by multiple bearings. Bell housing is aluminum.

May have to fill the shaft hole with JB weld, redrill, and install shaft. Or 3D print a jig to align and epoxy all in one go

I’ve replaced several shafts now, thats pretty easy actually. Just get some ground round stock on ebay, S6 f.e., cut to length, chuck it in the freezer for a few hours and fix it in place with green loctite.


Very interesting, do you grind off the d shape or put it on a mill?


@cfelzien do you have anything laying around :thinking: or did Ted take all my stuff I gave you :rage::joy:

This is a good idea. But the flipsky shafts are 10mm OD stepped to 8mm with a keyway and snap ring groove.

That’s impossible to machine in a home garage from hardened steel bar stock

Yep, I encountered that problem aswell. The snap ring problem is solved with a steady hand, a power tool to spin the shaft and a dremel cutoff wheel, and I just used 10mm ID pulleys. Those are a lot easier to find than a motor bell. :smiley:

I usually grind in a d-shape. But if you use green loctite you can skip this step, that’s a lot stronger. Only downside is that you need a lot of heat to get the pulley off again.

Here are some pictures of shafts I replaced, usually I’m making them longer for 1 motor 2 wheels configurations ( :smirk: ).


Drill chuck, sand paper, blood & sweat.

@Linesflag do you have much experience with 1 motor 2 wheel? What are the downsides? I’ve only really heard turning can be a bit weird

What is your preferred method of shaft retention too? Welding on a flange that screws into the can? Set screws/keyway? Or just green loctitties

That’s true, low speed turning feels a bit weird and can trow you off if you don’t expect it, but other than that I have no complaints so far. You save a lot of weight and cost. So far I’ve only done it on urethane builds though, so I can’t say anything about pneumatics.

This, and if the can has a set screw I grind in a flat spot.

Looking very clever, I’m impressed!

And that’s stock available on ebay?

If you can broach a keyway with sandpaper, you are a much much better shade tree mechanic than me. :astonished:

But i get your point. It’s possible to make some workable, but there are a lot of compromises on that path. And more difficult with gear drives.

Oh shit, didn’t notice the keyway part. Thought you were purely talking about the 10mm to 8mm step down.

You can definitely make an open keyway to pretty good enough tolerances w/a dremel & abrasive discs. May be able to round the slot ends with a 1/8’ carbide fluted spiral cutter once you grind away the case hardening w/abrasion… but even with an open keyway, could just retain with a circlip on one end. That’s not mentioning green loctite on the key & keyway/open ended slot, but I’m personally a fan of mechanical retention on them.

All of that is a complete shitshow tho & im definitely at a point in my life where I would never put that much effort into something I could buy/pay somebody to do with real tools tho lol.

Oh, & if you’re talking about broaching the keyway into a motor pulley. Requires a pretty solid vice or maybe metal trigger clamps, but a triangular file & a thin rectangular file work pretty good to make the pulley side keyway for our needs. Start with the triangular point, transition to rectangular one you’re deep enough it’ll center itself

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I think i have one actually. Not flipsky though.

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you defo don’t need a keyway for our usecases. :smiley: some green loctite and/or a d-shape is quite enough.

Green loctite is such a damn pain for me with normal motor & pulley usage. If you’re doing 1 motor 2 wheels probably a better idea.

I am very much a fan of keyway + set screw on round shafts, & just set screw on d shafts.

I bought some very high quality knurled bottom set screws that I love the function of. I’ve also handled more than a few builds in which people like. Somehow marred up the keway/key & jammed things on so it’s a pain to remove. With no adhesive & set screw undone, thing should slip right on & off like hotdog in hallway.

It is awesome that green loctite works as well as it does tho.

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Have a few questions on replacing shafts in outrunner motors