@Venom121212 and anyone else who appreciates a dual trigger remote. Can you describe what you like about it?
I’ve only ever gotten to try them very briefly, and I didn’t like it at all. but given there are people that do, it likely means I didn’t get used to it enough to give it a valid consideration.
When I think about it, with thumb or trigger i only have to have one finger free for throttle/braking control. and i can use all the remaining fingers for griping the remote steady. from that perspective i can’t see what’s to like about having two separate inputs. but maybe it’s something about squeezing motion for both braking and throttle being more natural than extension and retraction?
I’ve only put about 40 miles on my dual trigger so far, but I am loving it.
Acceleration is most natural and controllable as a trigger pull.
With GT2b I always found it unnatural to push my finger forward to brake. Pushing your thumb down to brake comes more naturally for me and is easier to control.
I will say that for racing, I’m not sure which I would like more. I feel like even though it’s less natural to push forward to brake with the index finger - using the index finger alone provides more fine control over braking than using the thumb. In racing where the most control is important for braking, maybe single trigger would still be best. For everyday riding, no question, split trigger is a joy.
The separation of throttles is huge for me in that each throttle now has way more throw in the actual physical limit of how far it can be depressed. Thumbwheel and single triggers split that one motion into two controls and I found myself always tweaking settings to make it feel “right”
Thumbwheel remotes are often pretty unintuitive when it comes to forward vs reverse direction on the wheel. At least the trigger ones are intuitively pulling “in” to a home position WRT the remote main body. Even then, if I get some speed wobbles and relax my grip, I can throw it too far and hit braking dependent on remote size, hand size, trigger size, glove usage etc. I will never accidentally brake or accidentally throttle from a finger moving in the wrong way on a split trigger. Both triggers pull in opposite directions, independently of each other, with no way to lock up my fingers on it. Riding switch regularly really fucks with me mentally when the mindset “roll wheel forward to go forward” is no longer true.
I see what you are saying about remote grip but when I’m accelerating, my thumb is still holding the remote firmly. When I am braking, my trigger finger is still supporting the remote as well.
Crashing with a finger tucked into a trigger mechanism is awful. Natural instinct is to open your palms and brace. Thumbwheel, you usually just let go. Same with split trigger. I’ve used the maytech remote as a slide puck ~15 times and the fucker still just runs.
Most importantly: I’m a human factors engineer so things that are counterintuitive to human design/usage irk me. Single trigger remotes require extension of the index finger to brake. I don’t believe throttle is best controlled by the relaxing of muscles as you do not have the same resistance feedback mechanism. Flex action control is what is commonly used.
The other day I had a couple of friends play with some RC drift cars. The remotes were similar to the GT2B. They all complained how “confusing” it was that pulling back was forward and pushing forward was reverse mode.
I don’t really have a point, just this example.
Thumb wheels are nice because the thumb is pretty strong in pull and push.
Dual trigger is cool for folks who only like to use “pushing” for their control input.
havin gdual trigger really increases the throttle resolution for sure
and the uhhhhhh index is much more precise with slight movement espectially compared to the thumb, so you can be exact with how much throttle you want
and it can be pretty smooth and comfy too
but, if you hit a bump that throws you off or twitch, you might accidentally sqeeze and have the board go flying, or you could bump the brake trigger and have you go flying, that and more moving parts that could fail?
i like both thumb and dual trigger, just there isn’t many dual triggers that suit my fancy atm so i lean to thumb
I love dual trigger but most of my boards have thumbwheel because the Zmote is the first reliable dual trigger. I rode the Maytech V2 for years, and just dealt with the dangerous cutouts because I didn’t want to give up the ability to turn on my board headlights.
I’ve put about 250 miles of use into my dual trigger zmote, and I’ve loved every minute of it. Not only is it incredibly comfortable to use, it reawakened my love for having the controls split.
The first and major benefit of the large index finger trigger is a huge amount of control and granularity, something I’ve always felt the puck and other thumbwheels tend to lack.
Second, there’s no accidental braking. You have to be very intentional about when you want to brake, by pressing down a separate finger. This is great because it means it’s much harder to accidentally brake or accidentally go past the middle position. Worth mentioning this doesn’t really happen to me often but it is something that has happened more than once.
I really think everyone should give a dual trigger zmote a try. They really feel great.
For racing, a lot of the time I don’t even need to use brakes that much but I do think it could be more annoying than a thumbwheel, since the time it takes to brake is arguably more.
With Mini remotes, I have empirically discovered that one great cause of dropouts is lots of cell phones in proximity. So, for example, near a stadium hosting a sports/music event, or in Lower Manhattan, these places are really bad, in my limited experience.
This is my leading theory as well. My biggest area of dropouts is right by 2 of the stadiums and I typically ride downtown on the weekends. Only dropout not in that spot I’ve experienced was on Halloween on a popular bar street.
I’m not an RF expert, but cell phones and cell phone towers shouldn’t be causing drop outs. Most esk8 remotes operate on 2.4 GHz, which would mean that the signal is competing with WiFi.
