Just a unity push button burn .
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I only have antisparks on two builds, one of them is my mountainboard, which ironically is a Unity that hasnât broken yet - but I will always have that fear
The other is a 4wd hub board that doesnât pull a ton of current, through the 200a maytech switch. Hasnât failed either
Thereâs just too many people that have failing issues for me to trust them fully yet.
Anyways with other good escs like the DV6, there is no built-in, and adding a whole ass antispark circuit into the enclosure takes up way more space than the XT-90s
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If youâre really running out of space, then use whatever works I guess.
Seems like a lot of the trust issues stem from lowside switches blowing up semi-immediately then causing canbus fires.
Guess the time to make a proper solid state switch was before everybody got burned by this lowside switching garbage :(.
Although Iâm not entirely sure why unity antisparks have a tendency to blow up, mustve neglected to read the datasheet since BKB was able to fix it.
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Iâm not really sure, I have heard some of the BKB ones went too
I also prefer being able to completely isolate the ESC from the battery by physically breaking the path, but thatâs just personal.
BKB hasnt solved anythingâŚcorrect me if Iâm wrong.
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Allegedly they upgraded the antispark in the v2
However, the main point is that they test each one before it goes out
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and still exist (and arenât scumbags) if you need to get warranties
ye, i do like 320 for the small stuff, 360 for most of the big stuff,
donât like to roast off the flux so fast
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sooooo these connectors are crap. They melted on me after 10 minutes of 30A charging. Donât ever use them, please.
Itâs not that visible, but you can kinda see it on the bottom left ant top right connector. After getting super hot, the plastic housing melted and the contact sunk into the casing. Thus, no electrical connection.
It seems these connectors arenât made from heat-resistant plastic like the amass XT connectors we are used to.
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casually charging at 30a
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yeah, that 6p 30q pack sure didnât like it xD
but I had practically no time for charging and wanted a quick ride before sundown with my buddy who was already on the way.
Donât worry, this was a one time thing. I usually charge at 4-8A
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Iâve run these at 30A on a motor dyno for hours on end, which crimping tool did you use?
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These came from an ebike motor (bbshd) already crimped and with 10 or 12 AWG wires. I can cut the casing open when I get home and take pictures if you want.
XT60 ant XT90 on the same wires didnât get warm at all
this is the setup (messy testing phase of the psu)
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Check the quality of the crimp
While a good crimp is better than a good solder joint, a bad crimp is significantly worse than a bad solder joint. The reason why they need a ratcheting crimp tool is because too little force and the wire doesnât actually crimp, too much force, the casing and the wire will shatter. The ratcheting action makes applying the correct amount of force much easier.
I actually ran into a bad crimp on the same motor dyno I mentioned. The connection was getting 20 °C hotter than everything else it was connected to.
The wires wouldnât be the culprit.
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This is the main reason I strongly prefer solder.
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If you use the right crimping tool, you donât have to worry about it.
If someone else is making your connections, then thatâs another story; you ask that person to solder xD.
Imma solder all the stuffs.
Iâve had a ton of failures, but so far my solder joints arenât on the list.
So far.
But Iâve also been soldering since the 1980s.
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Coupla things. Better to have an ACTIVE solder gun, that tries to maintain heat, with power and thermostat. It al;ows lower temp and still good joint.
Why are the solder nests on bullets sooooooooooo short?
And finally, which method is more likely to result in a good joint, after a good joint?
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What does the backside of the crimp look like? Thatâs the important part for split terminals like this.
Someone else I talk to who uses PP45s up their rated limited also mentioned that if the terminal is not properly seated it can also get excessively hot since the mating force on the PP45s is relatively low. If you are using highly flexible stranded wire, you have to jam the terminal into the housing pretty hard with a screwdriver. Thereâs a distinctive click when it gets in far enough.
So then yes, then we shouldnât use PP45s by virtue of the higher chance of incorrect assembly from third parties
Another possibility is, just like how fake XT60s and fake XT90s exist, that fake Anderson Power Poles connectors exist.
Sorry your experience with them was not up to the manufacturerâs specification.
The rated contact resistance is in the micro-ohm range.
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