What could go wrong?

For me I experienced the below before…

  1. Bent truck axle causing bearing seizing
  2. Wheel lock nut getting loose mid ride and the whole wheel fly out
  3. Remote interference, disconnected in the middle of a very busy intersection
  4. Small rocks on the ground that got jammed between the truck and the ground
2 Likes

Clicking noise (not otherwise specified)

-Likely coming from rear motors (if ur a 4wd fuck)
-clicking From heavy foot (your heal side), check your bearings
-clicking on any wheel regardless of motor at low speeds only with turns? Bearing is wobbling around in hub bearing seat (hello evolve, wanna race?).
-no clicks at low speed? Check your magnets. How do they work?
-

-have you overheated your magnets? The epoxy holding them in place can cook and weaken. Stop now damn it and open ur motors.
-concentric Ground out rings on all the magnets means it time to battle harden your shit.
-let’s get hard together
@anon54720240

9 Likes

:man_shrugging: 5? I’m guessing 5.

I’ll bring my motors to California and a camera. I’ll even pat your back when it’s all done and hold your beer.

Lol just realized you must have unblocked me :laughing:

This thread is literally deconstructing Murphy’s law. Since the first word of that law is “anything” I think we’re going to be here for a while…

1 Like

I’ve had all these happen personally except ( * ) starred ones are theoretical or from reports of other folks

wheel bearings squeak/squeal
wheel bearings stick
wheel bearings explode
wheel pulley wobbles
belt skips
belt breaks
motor mount moves
motor pulley slips
motor pulley falls off
truck hanger bends
truck hanger breaks
truck baseplate moves on deck
wheels chunk
battery series connection breaks
ESC dies
remote falls from hand onto roadway
nylock nut backs off axle ( * )
motor goes full-throttle randomly (ended up being smashed PWM wire to radio receiver)
remote cuts-out in certain spots (radio interference)
remote charge port breaks
remote power switch breaks
remote battery dies
motor sensors fail
enclosure breaks from blunt force
bushing binds up on kingpin, then suddenly lets go
snow packs wheel pulley
water fries ESC
phase wires touch each other
forgot to charge board
left board turned on for months
board auto-shutdown at traffic signal
antispark fails closed
forgot to grab remote
grabbed remote for another board
forgot to charge remote
rock enters belt system
deck breaks
flat tire
water inside enclosure
USB port breaks off ESC
motor can rubs
motor loose on mount
belt came untensioned
idler full of gunk
idler became loose
battery no longer lasts very long
board turns on but won’t respond to remote
motor bearings squeak/squeal
motor bearings stick
motor bearings won’t turn backwards anymore, only forwards
motor extremely noisy
broken magnet
slipping motor axle on rotor/can/bell
motor axle pulling out of rotor/can/bell
motor pulley stuck, cannot remove from motor
motor circlip scraping mount plate
pulley bearing fails
ESC power connector pulls apart
radio receiver falls off board
radio receiver antenna falls off
radio receiver becomes disconnected
accidentally shorted charge port
charger broken
charger port broken
loopkey mount pushes into board
remote failsafe not set
clicking magnets
bent motor mount
motor gear slips on grubscrews
broken stator ( * )

I’m sure I’ve forgotten something

18 Likes

I’m ok with this. Those crazy things that have happened will eventually happen again. I’ve already learned a few things here haha

3 Likes

I’ve got to go through this thread and collate knobholes :joy:

Please keep hard drama to the hard drama thread or I’ll get Damon in here to derail

3 Likes

Please dont change the titles of my threads Brian. They are fine

would you mind to explain this?

How do you fix this?

How do you avoid this?

Is there a solution?

how often does this happen?
How much larger do you have to dimension the battery (in terms of constant C-rate versus expected constant draw)?

when a motor is forced to turn above it’s no load speed it generates a voltage higher than the battery voltage.

to avoid phase to phase short circuits, probably don’t put too many amps through the motor which could degrade the thin, clear insulation inside the motor.

to avoid thermal runaway i’d say use a non flammable chemistry like lithium iron instead of lithium polymer or lithium ion.

to avoid radio interference while braking, a combination of dual redundant receivers could be used combined with directional faraday cages, but i’m not sure if these are available for application at this time.

4 Likes

does an anti-spark switch solve this sufficiently?

How many A would you use a 0.15mm Nickel strip for?

1 Like

how often? once was enough for me, messed me up good.

you can control this by setting the appropriate soft and hard lower-voltage cutoff values.

set the soft cutoff high enough so the esc has time to pull back current draw, which will prevent further battery sag. hope that made sense.

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Do you actually run this?

when mixing KV motors, this can be avoided by correctly setting the gearing ratios - right?

much love.
I hope someone develops a more compact form of LiFePO4 or similar cells one day.

1 Like

@thisguyhere What happened? It went full brakes and threw you off?

I assume you have a DieBieMS or a similar smart BMS?

nope, i’m setting the voltage values in the motor controller (unity).

but none of this matters now since almost everyone’s discharge bypassing the bms.

3 Likes

Interesting, and thanks for saving me a street-face, I’d never thought much about pack sag and voltage cut-offs… I’ll pay much better attention to setting my cut-offs and pack sag!!!

Great resource:

2 Likes