This is the real issue. We can’t have this.
ewww. I’ve never met a $30 iron that would flow solder correctly on larger wires. You need something that can do about 480C to get that 60/40 flowing fast enough to not wick up into your 10 or 12AWG far enough to cause these brittle/break or cold solder issues. More heat + less time = better solder joints.
i solder at 360C
my 12 dollar iron maxes at “450c.” i havent battle tested the connections ive done with it, but none of them have failed me on the street if they made it off the bench, and i dont use it much. but it sure seems to have done the damn job. i think that within the soldering range of temps, high temps will speed you up, but arent actually required. your technique, upon getting used to high temp, however… that will from there on out require that high temp youre used to.
I have a 20€ Iron that maxes out at 500°C+. This thing flows solder onto 6AWG wire. Single copper strands start glowing when they touch the tip. ^^
Hobbykings solder station with the big tip can do 10awg no problem on xt90 for example, i used 30$ just as an example 
I second this. 330c works but is a bit slow. 360 is right at the sweet spot for me. (12awg max)
Guys stop recommending such high temps… That’s bad to the tip, as it oxidizes quickly and damages it over time.
It’s all about thermal mass. If you got a big tip and good quality iron, you can heat up big wires without a super hot temperature.
A cheap iron with a small tip will need much more time to heat up the wire. Therefore, you crank the heat up, so it does it faster.
A good temperature is between 300-380 °C
yall are all arguing over solder or crimp… yet you’re all sleeping on crimp, then heat and fill with solder. I would say that’d be indestructible 
I’m sorry, How are these better than Bullets? - They dont have less CR than Bullets at a wonderful 0.025 4mm or 0.02 on the 6mm
Also heat conduction and loss with be no way better on these they may however be lighter
If you have the perfect wire diameter and the perfect crimp tool then crimping is better. It’s just that this is never the case for most hobbyists.
Depending on the application I use so many different wires with xt30-60-90s that wouldn’t all work with a crimp connection.
If you are a company and plan everything in advance crimping is good but it’s not flexible enough for me.
This is actually probably worse than either just a good crimp or a clean solder joint. The second you add solder you’re reintroducing that potential failure point, as your solder wicks up the strands and makes it more brittle.
At the same time, it looks like you no longer have room for heat shrink, so you can’t mitigate that risk by preventing excess vibration.
If you had a good crimp from the start, the connection was already as good or better than a soldered joint. You only added a weakness by soldering.
yeah interesting. With tiny cable not conducting very much current i just have major trust issues with crimps but that’s just a personal thing.
For monstrous applications, definitely crimping is the answer, for small shit, i prefer to solder. each to their own! 
Same!
It all goes back to having the exact right crimper for the job. If you don’t have that, crimps are less reliable.
It’s about heat delivery and the thermal gradient, not any of that other crap.
These people are using shitty irons with no real temperature control so they compensate by setting an absurd temperature to trick the iron into delivering heat at a higher rate.
They arent actually getting 360° or 450° or whatever bullshit temperature they set once the iron actually starts trying to heat up the wire.
I didn’t see any with antispark properties for a big ass loopkey
A couple of others have mentioned not experiencing sparks since the springs mitigate contact bounce.
Also we’ve evolved past using shit like loopkeys.
There are much better options now.
There are not better options that dont break.
Except we haven’t
Sheesh, you guys sound like you got burned by unity antisparks. XD
