Yes, not going to do such a pattern. Not sure why they needed to be different than the rest.
What hanger width (excluding axles) do we need in today’s esk8 market?
I voted 150 because we actually need it. The rest are available
What would your ideal 150mm setup look like regarding motors, motor placements, etc?
I don’t know if many people would want it my dude, 50xx motors on a nice compact hanger would be great.
People just seem to want bigger and bigger and bigger now. So if you’re asking for a commercial option I’d say 220 with dustbin size motors
Might be worth a simple forum poll in it’s own thread. A compact and perfectly set up purpose made drivetrain is appealing for shopping cart boards to me personally.
IMO the market right now is missing 2 things.
- A well made truck/mount combo for short boards. Unfortunately motors that can fit in this combo are very few.
- A well made truck/mount combo for bigger boards that can accommodate pneumatics.
Both should have a simple square profile in the ends to allow for cheap manufacturing and easy mounting of fully adjustable motor mounts.
Trucks should be RKP with 35 and 50 degrees baseplates.
Axles should be 10mm at least. I would rather change bearings more often than deal with bent axles.
I agree with everything except 10mm Axles, if the axles are made of good materials 8mm is fine especially on shorter hangers
There’s a case for 10mm axles, just need a source for affordable premium bearings in the EU
Right now it’s about 50 EUR for a set of NSK bearings
@taz is right on the money
The length of the hanger has nothing to do with it.
It is the exposed axle that is the problem here.
Esk8s need more exposed axle length which is no bueno.
Also the flex of that axle depends entirely of the dimension and the material. This flex can play a role in maintaining proper alignment between pulleys all the time.
All steels have more or less the same elastic modulus.
You may able to improve on fatigue and bending but you cannot improve this flex by going to a different steel grade.
I think the markets missing a single motor running 2 fixed wheels go cart style I think that’s most suitable for a narrow setup. With the vesc 6 desin been able to take the 80 amps big motors can use you will have the power and grip of a old dule build saving 200 vesc and 100 motor.
Custom motor shaft
Custom bracket on the can side to holed a bearing
Hanger length to match what ever motor 63 75/80/95
Needs to be priced less than 300 (saving from unused motor and vesc)
8mm motor plate
8mm motor plate
8mm spare play
Fitting dual drive on tailed short boards with 15mm belts is still a hassle, and it’s 2020…
… and it seems any narrow prebuilt dual motor truck (like DIYE etc) you can buy is crap quality and I’d break it in a day or less. Thus, it’s not even an option on my table.
I agree with everything @taz said, but especially the need for setups like that. But only if it’s the highest quality. Cutting any corners is just meh another toy I can’t use
I’m referring to
- 185mm or less hanger length
- milled billet hangers
- axles with nyloc nuts on the end, not shoulder bolts
- 10mm⌀ x 55mm axles
- not-round profile hanger
- super fat, strong hanger 22mm+
- Caliber bushing seat / pivot cup compatible
- 42/50 degrees
- wire channels in baseplate for bonus points
And maybe even some custom motors that
- don’t use precious space for hall sensor assemblies (I’d rather have 3mm more stator)
- are as long as possible but still fit on the truck with dual 15mm belts
- have 3mm key on the output shaft
and, most importantly,
- have 3mm key between rotor/bell and shaft
and I like TKP and RKP (both have pros and cons, TKP get the axles further apart on short wheelbases) but if it’s RKP it’d be cool to have a small amount of rake that’s reversible for tuning purposes.
I like to run
15mm wheel pullys (give tolerance for the belt to move side to side a little with out ever seeing the side of the pully) (1mm flanges each side of the motor pully Gives you space so why not use it)
13mm motor pully (it’s a nightmare to get holed of)
On pretty torky heavy builds I fined 12mm belts are fine and don’t get much gain by moving up to 15mm
150 ish if extended axle useing bearing pullys. 180 ish if not these dimension have been tried and tested by many longboarderes for decades
I’ll be able to share a picture of this setup in a couple of weeks hopefully (there is 1 other person who’s done it but I can’t find it), but the idea is that you use metal standoffs / spacers to mount the motor outwards, so that on short hangers you can use big motors without space issues. The mounts need to be long enough so that the motors clear the wheel.
My setup will be using your existing mount, and 80mm kegels. Single drive; doing it just because the deck is in the way (If you have another caliber mount lying around I could do dual drive as well )
Hardest part was finding the metal spacers; if you made a mount specifically designed for mounting this way, it would be way more rigid and accessible.
Sounds a bit strange but will be interesting to see the result
I will add, a truck, no matter the lenght (200mm to 270mm) and no matter the axle thick (8mm or 10mm) with more than 54mm axels (at least 44mm usable) able to acommodate any wheel core in the market.
Incidentally, we need more urethane or rubber covered wheels in between the 120mm to 150mm segment. There are basically none at the moment.
As for 54mm axles, what wheels / setup is requiring this length?
Split pneumatic tire hubs for example. Most (Trampa, MBS, etc.) can accommodate only 2" inch wide pneumy tires. With 3D print divider center rings those hubs can acommodate wider tires or rubber covers which in turn require longer than traditional stock 32mm to 47mm axles.
There are also new CNC aluminum hubs coming now from Psychotiller and E-Toxx which will benefit from longer axles. Incidentally, on installation, most geared drives today, take some portion of the hanger tips leaving less usable axle lenght to sit wheel hubs on.