Bull shit. Go to a car show and sling that. Guys will laugh in your face.
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If you arent milling aluminum and anodizing it for the trucks, designing your geardrives mixing lithium with cobalt in your basement, making your esc are you really doing it yourself?
@janpom accidently wrote the same response haha
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I would understand the argument that a kit board isnāt DIY. if all the parts needed came together ready to plug into each other guaranteed to fit.
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I have rebuilt a mates scooter battery for his son. But I spent double the time making sure it was flexible insulated fused and safe. I wouldnt charge to make a esk8 battery either there are plenty of battery Gurus nearby that will do a way better job @TinnieSinker
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I totally agree. I find there are two types of customers. Ones that are so glad you will make a pack for them that they will pay whatever you say and ones that are shocked at what you quote and tell you you are expensive. The classic line is āI wasnt expecting it to be so expensiveā. Half the cost of the pack are materials, its 1/2 to 3/4 of a day to make it and then I give you a 3 month warranty - honestly itās almost not worth making them. If you dont like the price dont buy the battery. You can get them cheaper from other unscrupulous individuals if you wantā¦
Edit - can I be added to the list of battery makers in the UK please?
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So which one of you is making my battery for free 
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Me 
But you will pay in CAD you little fucker. 
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Ahh, gathering foreign currency due to Brexit are we?
Are you sure CAD is a good investment?
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everything you just described is why i have my own spot welder. Building your own packs is basically imperative to building completes. Selling completes is pretty much the only way to sell a battery without people complaining about the price of the battery, yet the battery build is about 70% of the entire boardās build time and easily 25% of the total cost of the parts.
Every time i hear somebody say they bought a 12S4P or 10S4P for $200 - $300 i want to slowly back away from their board, maybe even preemptively pull the fire alarm. Iāve seen so many of those packs though. No consideration for flex, p-groups canāt float around or allow for twist or vibration, 2 to 4 welds per cell, loaded with vertical fiberglass panels that further constrain the ability to flex and twist, flat cell orientations with welded series connections, jumbled up balance leads, you name it.
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Iām gonna fess up that I sometimes assemble packs for next to nothing on labor, but I also donāt deal with anyone outside of the forum so Iām really just doing it for the community.
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Yep I repaired a battery yesterday with @Tonkatron that the chap had plugged his VESC in backwards. Luckily the pack was made so shit that 1 of the SINGLE PEICES OF NICKEL that was connecting each P group acted like a fuse and cut the circuit when it evaporated. Balance wires crossed etc. I asked how.much the pack was and it was Ā£250! 10S4P 30Q
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you used that meme wrong
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Iām happy to teach people how to build batteries, point them in the direction they need and so on without charging for it, Iām happy to get more riders in my country
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This community kicks ass so yeah. Totally. Thatās how we stay fam.
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selling pre-welded p-groups might be the best way out of this mess.
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Inb4 someone asks you if you can build the batteries for cheaper if they get the P groups pre-welded
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Ironically welding the P groups is the easiest part with the least amount of potential for things to go bad.
Things get sketchy as soon as you start joining them together
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Ask me about the time when I was assembling a pack well into 3am, and my half-asleep + drunk ass thought it was a good idea to trim the + and - power leads flush by cutting them together with dykes.
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Good way to get a new pair of dykes!
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