I cant wait for the range measurements! I also have these but I couldn’t mount them to an electric board yet (i have hub motors because i cant afford any better now 
)
For now they are on my pushboard, they feel unbelievably comfortable but having them on a pushboard is quite a workout 
Would be nice to quantify how much more energy they require to roll, I am mainly interested in a comparison to TB110s 
All appreciation for everyone who is pushing those wheels for more than 1km 
Because of the bad weather and thankfully (for me) a start of lockdown, I didn’t have to actually use them yet, I pushed them for about a 1.5km test ride until I got exhausted. For reference, I pushed 10km a day to commute every day before lockdown on clone 97s / 70mm thanes. I am happy I don’t have to push these for 10km a day
I even had to push these a few times to get down the hill where I was practising slides on 70mm thane
Anyone tried the new 76a 100mm Boa wheels? Wondering how they compare to 78a TB110
There’s also the TB 74A 100mm idk if they new or not tho
@longhairedboy @jamie This account posts nonsense all over the place, looks like a bot of some sorts.
What are you talking about?
Or is this sarcastic
i have a set of 99A park wheels on one of my popsicles and they’re garbage anywhere but perfectly smooth pavement or cement. idk why bones makes them but i guess somebody like them. bowl and park wheels i suppose, but i would want softer ones even there.
durometers in the high 70s and low 80s is where its at. Ahmyo Akashas on my dinghy are 79A, my boas and kegels are 83A but i swear they feel more like 78. I have a set of TB 74A somewhere around here too.
Oh haha. There is an account that just posts mostly unrelated nonsense everywhere. There was a comment just before mine that has now gone… I assume it / the account has been removed! Now I look like I was talking to myself
My favorite urethanes were without a doubt hyperdrive 100mm. I don’t recall them having different durameters but I always get the softest. I tore mine up in like 3 months of riding hard af. My flash airless wheels eat range, and the metal core makes bearing changes a bit of a pain, but are the grippiest most comfortable wheels I’ve ever ridden. They’re discontinued, I’m on the look out for when they rerelease under the name I think jet. Blue cags are as small as I’ll go, and they are made of pure magic. Stock boosted wheels are trash, throw them in the trash. Mbs off-road or all terrain or whatever urethane wheels lasted one real ride before I had a core melt and my wheel rolled away. Also, they were just straight up not comfortable, and lacked any real grip.
So best to worst:
Flash 125mm airless
Hyperdrive 100mm
Blue caguamas
Mbs at urethane
Stock boosted
Only mentioning what I’ve electrified
Pretty sure these are the exact same wheel as TB100 74a. I have some, they were on decent sale, I’d buy tb100 in the future if they weren’t.
They ride really well, they’ve got different grip than other urethane wheels I’ve tried. It’s like they stick to the concrete. Which is amaaaazing when you’re carving around, BUT a downside I forgot to mention is that they kind of skip on the pavement if you brake hard, and if you aren’t careful they’ll catch flat spots. They also wore out quicker than I’d like but I was riding like 10 miles a day on em, so that’s not surprising.
so do my 83A Boas.
i think its a problem with large, soft urethane, and how it moves while spinning. im gonna ask doug(hollow wheels dude) if he has math or tests on that phenomenon. maybe the key to large urethane wheels is multiple layers of varying urethanes? and hes already working on similar.
like, a medium density but flexible core(urethane, not kegel/abec/whatever), low density body structure of the wheel, then another shell of medium or even hard if it can flex for durability.
that sounds like a recipe for comfort, but also for eating up battery.
isnt that always the tradeoff though?
true but insoles go a long way and don’t eat battery.
another annoying tradeoff though is harder rubber vs softer rubber in pneumatic tires. Softer rubber at max pressure gets better range but harder rubber lasts longer. So now you’re choosing between max range and buying tires every couple months or more.
They exist for downhill racing, got a hard inner core for control, but a soft outside for grip. I’m curious how they do the pouring such that both layers adhere to each other though.
