You are totally right, they are 33T indeed!
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The famous Evolve one tooth jump
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The one and only…
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My blue cags are chunked like that just from Kick pushing the neighborhood. Have probably 2 miles on them and three have big chunks.
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Damn…must be a rough neighborhood…
But pun aside, are the roads bad over at your area?
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My blue cags are cchunked like that just from Kick pushing the neighborhood. Have probably 2 miles on them and three have big chunks.
Sharp Edges = Prone Chunking
Rouded Lips = Avoids Chunking
Yep; just posted some pics; enjoy 
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You’re awesome Brian 
That’s what I was told as well but the funny thing is my experience was swapped…
I had the abec 97mm which is rounded chipped on me on its first ride and more chipping on the subsequent rides…
But my 90mm Boosted clones with sharp edges lasted me perfectly with no chipping or cracking after 400km…
Both wheels were used on the same route on my commute…
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I have had not so good experiences with abec11 and longevity.
The longest lasting wheel I’ve ever tried are the original @torqueboards black 78A TB110, which I’ve never had a single chunk or chip on, despite copious amounts of shredding.
The newer blue 74A I’ve also never had chunk but haven’t put as many km on them yet.
And then there are abec11 SuperFly…
…which don’t hold up so well for me. They might for others, I don’t know.
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Then inner severe chunking is similar with what happened to one of my rider friend’s Evolve F1 abec wheels…
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Philly streets are crap. But they never got mounted to an esk8. 6 months on 97 abecs and not a single tear
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The smaller the wheel pulley is, the harder it is to turn the wheel. There is no way around it, pretty much like riding a bicycle, small gear is harder to pedal uphill and to push in general than bigger gear.
Harder = more battery drain.
I’m having the same understanding as @Mobutusan stated in his reply to you as below.
Maybe I just need help understanding why a larger pulley does not reduce battery load in general riding?
So, if you drive a 100mm wheel with a 40t wheel pulley and drive a 200mm wheel with that same 40t pulley, you’ll see the same range? I find that very hard to believe as all of the electronics are going to be working a lot harder and getting a lot hotter with the 200mm wheel to overcome the gearing disadvantage. That extra heat has to come from somewhere, and that somewhere is your battery in the form of wasted energy and therefore less range. If the gearing or wheel size difference is small, the range loss may be too small to notice, but at some point the difference will become noticeable.
Also when people say they are going faster but less range when they put a bigger wheel on the same pulley, it is because the pulley is the same but the wheel is bigger so in ratio the pulley is smaller compared to the bigger wheel then the previous smaller wheel, ergo more battery drain.
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Maybe I’m not the best person to explain you the exact process, but I’ll try my best.
The total consumption of an e-board is the result of the applied power/torque. You can’t influence the electrical power by changing mechanical gears.
According to Ben Vedder, are BLDC motors are most efficient at 8600rpm and in 12S setup. So what ever gear ration you choose, motors will run most efficient working according to their specs at 80-90% max rpm.
Now you have to take in consideration weight, rolling resistance, friction and wind resistance. the gear ration do not touch any of the mentioned points.
At a given speed for let’s say 30km/h, that gear ratio which will be closest do 8600rpm will be the most efficient.
If you want to save battery power, you should lower you motor rpm, total speed and acceleration curve as much as possible.
As you see, the biggest influence on consumption has your riding style and second the type of wheels you are using.
To say a higher or lower gear ratio lowers or highers the consumption in general is not correct. You can use for example the ESK8 calc and calculate your range with different gears. You will see it will be always the same, since it is impossible to predict how you gonna use your board.
I hope I could help a little, even if I can’t explain it really scientific.
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And then there are abec11 SuperFly…
Chunking King (CKK)
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Speaking of blue Orangutang wheels, I tried the 70mm President wheels today, and they are a LOT more squishier and softer than the caguamas. I bombed a hill with them on a pennyboard 
(Couldn’t even foot brake due to wobble control, but the ride was SMOOTH)
I think 75mm In-heats in the front, and 80mm kegels in the back could be the ultimate small wheel combo. Unless these too start chunking. Time will tell, although I don’t think they’re gonna reach 200km usage on a push board that soon.
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This wheel breaking at edge because is not round. This wheel is mould with square edge then use lathe to round edge after. Is too soft material so very easy for breaking.
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