take a 6384 motor
remove the shaft
push onto a 10mm axle
somehow tighten the can in place (can and magnets not stator) (this is the hard bit)
stator bolts to wheel
im guessing this doesnt work but why shouldnt it for an easy direct drive solution?
too high kv on most 6384. The lowest I saw was 120kv.
Got two fs75100 coming within few weeks. Wanna stress test their thermals with foc_openloop but dun have big motor nor want to dunk my spare 6354 in water.
I thought maybe it doesn’t have to be a motor on the receiving end of high phase current. Here’s my two separate weird/stupid ideas on thermal testing esc without using a motor.
Securely connect all the three phases in a big chunk of steel and run the foc_openloop test. Cool down the steel using heat sink, fan, or submerge in water.
Connect each phase wires to electrodes submerged in a bucket of saltwater. Make sure the electrodes are positioned equidistant to one another. Run the foc_openloop test. Sniff the resulting chlorine fumes to reunite with our maker.
Harmonic drives inside of wheels.
If you want, just simulate that, just run a 1:1 belt setup, I did for fun a long time ago with 6355 motors and worked reasonably well, you just need to up the motor current
If your ESC can take the high current, the motor Kv doesn’t matter(*)
Out of curiosity, how was it on a 1:1 ratio thermal wise? I would’ve guessed those TB 6355s would be pretty toasty running with no mechanical advantage.
if i didn’t love you before, i do now.
jeremiah at ollin board company would do shit like this. I’ll bet your brakes don’t skip lol
Has anyone done a freewheel chain drive with mechanical disk brakes? That’s the one thing I find strange about running belts, the amount of rolling resistance when letting go of the throttle.
I might have Metr logs somewhere, I didn’t run into problems, but I didn’t run it for long rides and it was winter, and given that I could overheat them on my MTB when riding hard on 14:72 gearing, I wouldn’t recommend for daily use
But a bigger motor for sure, there are some motors that the stators have 3 times the height of a 6355, and on top of that, if you design it well, you can put ferro fluid in it to make it room even cooler and have more thermal headroom
@longhairedboy despite all the drama involved, I miss that guy, some really cool shit came from him, shame things went they way they did
No thread or videos on that board?
Guess it would have been before these times.
Then makes more sense to make a thread on ultra low reduction but not DD boards in general not just yours.
me too, man. me too.
you find it strange in lacking rolling resistance or having too much of it? In my opinion, looser belts are the next best thing to direct drives for free roll.
Having too much, it might just be because I’m still learning to lean to compensate for braking/letting off the throttle properly or maybe I just don’t have my throttle tuned well but whenever I let off the throttle when at speed it feels like the board lurches a bit due to it slowing down so much. I thought I tuned my belts properly, they aren’t super tight or anything.
Intuitively I feel like when I let off the throttle I should just coast like when driving a car. Or sorta how it feels on a pushboard when you push off and just coast. Feel like I might be doing something wrong with my setup from what you are saying.
have you tried different motors? 6355s should have relatively low rolling resistance compared to larger ones. I find all of this very curious.
Currently running 6374s at the moment, can the quality of motor affect the rolling resistance?
I did not expect this, but is pretty accurate.
1st build was m1 thane drives with 6354 maytech, free roll is the best I’ve felt coming from pre-built belts/bkb tayto kit belts.
2nd build is also m1 thane but with flipsky 6384 and the cogging of the larger motors were enough to make a decent change in free roll. Most notable at slower speeds
A lot of times, I feel like the feeling of “lack of power” can easily be confused with the feeling of “drag”.
Very similar to exiting the freeway and, being velocitized, you feel like you’re going ridiculously slow on the side roads when you are actually going the normal speed. And if you’d reached that same speed from a stop, it’d feel like you were going much faster.
So letting off the throttle – or hitting the top-end of your setup – or losing radio signal briefly – I think often feels like drag when in fact it’s not [much] drag but moreso just the lack of power you’ve gotten accustomed to feeling.
gigantic yes. big fonts.
what if dragster build with 100mm wheels in front and dual ebike hubs in rear?
