Weird theories and ideas thread! any ideas welcome

Themed runs of decks. This isn’t even weird and is something I’ll probably be pursuing. Be on look out for a set of adventure time decks coming up soon enough xD

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This thing.

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If that suspension is damped though, expect a Wh/km consumption of ‘yes’

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It was originally an April fools joke :rofl:
Imagine the maintenance procedures.

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To use an aluminum foil pan as a mold to make fiberglass enclosures. They come in a pretty convenient size to. 9x13 for short boards and 9× 25 ( I think) for longer boards. Plus the pan is designed to give it very good structural integrity for it size.

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Edit: Seems you deleted your post…but below is my answer anyway.

It depends on what you’re looking to test. Generally, any test that you want to be representative of a situation for a certain device, needs to approximate said situation.

If you’re just testing whether or not a specific ESC can sustain X amount of amps, then generally you would use FOC open loop into a motor that can handle that current, and then monitor thermals.

Since that generally still leaves the battery in current relatively low, you could then set up a dynamometer to simlate torque load on a motor at a certain RPM, and funnel that back to require more current draw from the battery.

A power supply likely isn’t going to be able to provide 50-75v at tens of amps, unless you’ve got quite the budget. So a battery of a representative size would be appropriate.

Generally, most folks who are interested in testing such things simply use the most practical test jig available, which is an actual eskate they’ve built, and then substitute the part in to test.

Of course, that’s dangerous should the part fail, but it’s usually cheaper for someone who doesn’t have a whole shop’s worth of stuff to make testing jigs.

You could also design a specific PCB based testing jigs like what Future Motion does, but that takes engineering talent and money.

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Inb4 frank :eyes:

Would sanding off the ano and polishing the cans of a motor help keep it cooler by a couple of degrees because of better reflectivity? Would there be a reason not to?

HA!

But like unironically lol. My black enclosure gets warm just sitting out there in the sun, the motors probably are too, and they heat up faster during use at least on my setup.

In theory it would work, and painting them white would theoretically work even better.

Inb4 mikey

actually black colour dissipate heat faster

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But does that outweigh its light to heat conversion rate?

Wait does this mean black stuff actually does work better at night? Hell yeah.

So I looked it up, and apparently white reflects visible light the best, while silver reflects infrared best, which I think is what’s most relevant here. Also the easiest since I can just run some sandpaper on a spinning motor.

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it depends, since motor itself generate heat, the heat that motor absorb from light source and turn into heat is probably not compareable with the heat generated by the coils.

in idle or storage, sure white would be better, but for a spinning motor, i’d imagine black to be the best heat dissipate colour

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Along the same lines I don’t think heat dissipation would matter a whole lot on the can itself. It’s already exposed to airflow which will do far more, and it’s not even the part that heats up. If I can keep heat absorption from exterior sources down it should improve both as a whole, albeit possibly a miniscule amount.

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Bare metal is terrible at emitting infrared (heat), it has very low “emissivity”. Polished metal is the worst of all.

Anything on the metal (paint, anodizing, etc.) will actually help the metal cool itself better via radiative cooling…which isn’t a lot but it’s there.

If the paint or whatever is very thick then radiative cooling is still there but the convective cooling that happens when air moves over the metal is not as effective.

So, a thin coating is best…like anodizing or paint. This significantly raises the can’s emissivity.

But, as mentioned, not a lot of heat can even reach the can. It won’t hurt to help the bit of heat to escape but it won’t fundamentally cool the stator to paint the cans flat black.

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DefiniteShorttermInvisiblerail-size_restricted
We are not worthy of the mooch<3

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See I was looking at this not from an emissivity direction, but rather absorption direction. Silver would absorb far less energy from the sun than a black one, which should keep the interior environment slightly cooler even though emissivity is impaired, because the primary form of cooling there would be airflow rather than straight up emission.

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