Weird cutout/fault

Just to double check, even though it doesn’t look like it’s the source of your issue, you did set this to 85% on both sides, not only on the master?

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Can other packs have the same issue? Any way to fix it if it was sagging? Vesc tool reads 41.8v when the charger turns green so there shouldn’t be a mechanical issue right?

Yes both sides.

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This doesn’t affect much. What affects your ability is the esc and battery and usually the remote when it’s defective.

Do you know what battery model is it?
Does the board turn off randomly or does it still have power?
Does this happen when you have the board on its back and hit the remote full throttle?
And, do you have clues to see whether or not it’s the remote and the receiver?

I only had this happen because my receiver wires got loose after a while.

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There was a batch of vx1 remotes that had a bad solder job to the throttle or antenna. Maybe it’s coming from there.

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^This would definitely be it. Best way to tell is to have a different remote and try it again.

Found the thread. Maybe it helps.

I guess it could be the receiver/remote. I do have the receiver outside and accidentally hit it sometimes.

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I would recommend a different remote if you are able to get one. I switched my torqueboard mini to a hoyt and never experienced problems until my wires got loose after off road riding a bunch of times. I taped it up and never had issues, even at 40+ mph

Maybe i could try to find someone with a extra hoyt and test it out couple weeks. Would it be loose wires tho? I dont get stuck brakes or accel and everything works ok beside hard accel. Hard brakes work no problem

It’s a valid point about the vx1. They’re known to have issues. It’s worth checking the wiring. Lots of people have put a ton of miles on them without fail too. Interference is a concern if you’re in a densely populated area.

Your point about it always happening under power is a clue to power delivery. Also, your point about it happening more frequently after increasing the settings is a good clue as well. Just because it reads the right voltage at rest doesn’t mean that there can’t be a connection problem. A poor connection will have difficulty maintaining the voltage once there is demand for current.

Again, not saying it’s for sure your battery. You need to get a logging product on there. I’m partial to robogotchi and in your case specifically xenigotchi.

Until then, all you can do is check your connections. Without tearing into the pack, you won’t know about it. Thats getting extreme, though. And I wouldn’t recommend that until you have a log of it happening.

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Which is why I asked the questions above to know for sure. It’s best to know for sure. You should try a different remote just to be sure whether it’s not the board or the remote.

That’s the downside to DIY. The troubleshooting. When you lose power with hard acceleration, you can use vesc tool app or anything that links you to your esc and see if you lose connection going top speed. If your app resets, it’s the board and battery. If the board is still on but it plays around badly, it’s the remote.

This is the simple way to tell.

I dont have bluetooth working. The stock bluetooth doesn’t want to connect for some reason. Probably logging feature would be most helpful but will definitely try to test with a different remote. Thanks guys.

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It doesnt look like anything is wrong. These wires arent copper right? I think theres some rust or something on the ground in the second picture. Possibly the problem?

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your battery management system is probably cutting the power because it thinks you are pulling too many battery amps or voltage sag is triggering your low volt cutoff.

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Bms is bypassed but I agree with your second point.

have the exact same issue
im 99.99999999% sure its the battery sagging a lot (old 30q battery with a ton of miles on it)
i think its just hitting the voltage cutoff as it sags a lot

Damn that sucks. Would higher amperage cells fix the voltage sag issue? Not even doing the limit of my pack and its got a “issue” already. Hold on, the metroboard x uses the same cells with 3 p groups less and i dont hear any problems with that and im running the same amount of current as the limit of metro x battery.

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What cells are in it?

LG mh1 10s8p

Did you see any specific fault codes?

Since you don’t have onboard logging that you can see remotely, recreate the issue and don’t turn off your board. Plug it into your computer and check for faults.