It’s a valid point about the vx1. They’re known to have issues. It’s worth checking the wiring. Lots of people have put a ton of miles on them without fail too. Interference is a concern if you’re in a densely populated area.
Your point about it always happening under power is a clue to power delivery. Also, your point about it happening more frequently after increasing the settings is a good clue as well. Just because it reads the right voltage at rest doesn’t mean that there can’t be a connection problem. A poor connection will have difficulty maintaining the voltage once there is demand for current.
Again, not saying it’s for sure your battery. You need to get a logging product on there. I’m partial to robogotchi and in your case specifically xenigotchi.
Until then, all you can do is check your connections. Without tearing into the pack, you won’t know about it. Thats getting extreme, though. And I wouldn’t recommend that until you have a log of it happening.
Which is why I asked the questions above to know for sure. It’s best to know for sure. You should try a different remote just to be sure whether it’s not the board or the remote.
That’s the downside to DIY. The troubleshooting. When you lose power with hard acceleration, you can use vesc tool app or anything that links you to your esc and see if you lose connection going top speed. If your app resets, it’s the board and battery. If the board is still on but it plays around badly, it’s the remote.
I dont have bluetooth working. The stock bluetooth doesn’t want to connect for some reason. Probably logging feature would be most helpful but will definitely try to test with a different remote. Thanks guys.
It doesnt look like anything is wrong. These wires arent copper right? I think theres some rust or something on the ground in the second picture. Possibly the problem?
your battery management system is probably cutting the power because it thinks you are pulling too many battery amps or voltage sag is triggering your low volt cutoff.
have the exact same issue
im 99.99999999% sure its the battery sagging a lot (old 30q battery with a ton of miles on it)
i think its just hitting the voltage cutoff as it sags a lot
Damn that sucks. Would higher amperage cells fix the voltage sag issue? Not even doing the limit of my pack and its got a “issue” already. Hold on, the metroboard x uses the same cells with 3 p groups less and i dont hear any problems with that and im running the same amount of current as the limit of metro x battery.
Since you don’t have onboard logging that you can see remotely, recreate the issue and don’t turn off your board. Plug it into your computer and check for faults.
Thought vesc tool mighta had something like this. Where do i find the fault log?
I read it to be 10a a cell. I thought they weren’t very good either compared to say p42a but it was half off and i figure 80a is good enough, cant really complain. Im thinkin about pushing it to max when i have pneumies on.
This cell has a moderate maximum temperature of 73°C-75°C at its 10A rating. But it suffered some damage from five subsequent 10A discharges. While safe to use at 10A I would recommend not exceeding 7A for decent cycle life.
A 5A discharge run after the 10A discharges showed a drop in voltage and slightly reduced capacity. This indicates that damage was done during the six 10A discharges.
A discharge at 15A brought the cell temperature to 99°C and dropped the voltage considerably. That’s way too hot and will significantly speed up the damage being done and risks venting of the cell. Stay under 10A.
See my blog for more information on the testing procedures, equipment used, and links to all my test results.
Oh right. Forgot to check his testing for mh1. Probably need a new pack for pneumies then, was kinda lookin forward to trying them. Tho back to the metroboard x, their known to last long and 7a×5p is only 35a, idk but seems kinda low no? I had 15 each before and pretty sure it was no where near the torque of a metro x.
Just a side note… Any ultra-high capacity cell is not good for anything drawing more power than a powerbank or laptop or similar low current device. It’s what these cells were designed for.
We all just look at the capacity numbers. We all just want more capacity, more riding time. But you can’t have good power handling and all that capacity too. Something always has to be sacrificed if increasing power handling or capacity or cycle life.
For a “power” application like esk8 we should start with selecting cells with a suitable current rating and only then choose from the ones with higher capacity. This helps to decrease risk and also improves performance since we can avoid lots of voltage sag. This increases range. It also helps to increase the cycle life of the pack since we are not running each cell near or above its rating.
The cell’s current rating always needs to be reduced for cells used in a pack since the cells heat each other up. The rating in the datasheet is for a single cell in open air, not for a bunch of cells placed together, wrapped up, and then placed in a sealed enclosure with warm/hot electronics.
Most people don’t take their cells down that far. I personally have used 2.9v on a couple of occasions but most use 3.0v or higher. It affects cell life and longevity the lower you take them, as well as, how high you charge them, and how you store it.
Yes but it would be temporary. I wouldnt take it down to even 31, my rides usually end around 33v or more. Its just to test it couple rides if its the sag and end cutoff that makes me cutout, it shouldnt affect cell life that much just testing it right? And i wouldnt set the lowest, maybe 27v cutoff for testing?
