Waterproofing batteries: the thread?

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics
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Calling our resident master of conformal coating @b264

For peace of mind in snowy and soggy conditions, we would like our boards to be as waterproof as possible, looking for ways to protect packs from rusted cells and shorted circuits

As far as I can tell, the best ways to protect a pack would be…

  • acrylic conformal coating on the BMS
  • wrap everything in heat shrink
  • seal all gaps in heat shrink with neutral cure silicone
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That pretty much sums it up what has been working for me. The other thing is to make sure you’re not going to have holes being rubbed in the heatshrink because that’s a thing with vibration.

And no, I strongly disagree with only making the enclosure water resistant. Yes, you should do that, but no, it shouldn’t be your only defense because if you ride long enough it’s not “if” water will get in, but “when”.

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What works for me is water resistance + waterproofing

So, make it hard for water to get inside. But then assume water will be inside and make the inside still work with water in there.

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@hummieee potted some cells in silicone iirc, did that work or cause heat probs?

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Eliminate the holes in the box and seal the box.

  • route the wires through the deck and eliminate 6 to 8 holes in the box.
  • use a remote with a fuel guage to get rid of the one on the box and eliminate one hole in the box
  • use an ESC with push-to-start to get rid of the power button and eliminate another hole in the box
  • you now have no holes in the box. Seal the box to the deck with neutral cure silicone.
  • enjoy
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forgot about the charge port. Until wireless charging is figured out we still have one hole in the box.

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On my current board I’m putting a loop key mount in the Riser of my rear truck.
My deck has already been skinned by sender and it’s only a 7 ply so i don’t wanna cut into the deck.

My plan is to use flat braided cable to go between the deck and the enclosure so i don’t have to put any holes on the enclosure.

Maybe epoxy it to the deck?

Does this seem viable?

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I prefer these things :arrow_down: and bluetooth, but same end result: no hole for gauge. Overall the only hole you need is for the charge port.

20190625_115755
20190625_1157554656×2620 4.77 MB

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In regards to a power button, thoughts on sanding away a small section of the enclosure so its thin enough to press a button without a hole? Also prevents the idiots from turning it on

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Waterproof, idiot-proof power button. Won’t fail as much as antisparks. Gold standard.

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20190427_0026584656×2620 4.71 MB

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You can eliminate the charge port hole by adding using a riser that has a spot for the charge port.

Thats what I did on my tayto and so far no water has gotten in it.

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Whats the issue with the charge port? Is it the connector itself or the seal around it?

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Any hole you put in the enclosure is a potential spot for water to get in

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Only time I’ll say

Less holes = more better

I typically like more holes in things

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Big on swiss cheese and knitted blankets?

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And chicks with piercings.

Cars with rust (free weigh reduction)

Jeans with holes

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I mall grabbed my electric cruiser for a semester and now I have 6 sets of pants with holes on the pockets where my phone and wallet always sat :sob:

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You have to pay like 20 extra dollars for someone else to put those holes in your jeans for you at a designer retailer

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For holes in enclosures, what about ESC heat sinks? I was thinking of putting a round hole under my ESC and bolting it in place with an O-ring underneath (it’s a FSESC dual 6.6+ so its a solid aluminum square with 4 tapped holes in the corners)

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I’ve been told by more than a few members that a proper heatsink with thermal Mass should cool the ESC plenty without being exposed.

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