Waterproofing batteries: the thread?

Sweet, does it have to be exposed to the air in the enclosure or can a I sandwich it with foam?

I potted a battery in polyurethane but not good for holding in heat and also blocking the gas release some cells have.
All the waterproofing amounts to trapped heat and reduced potential power output and early cell death. I’d rather have airflow. Maybe a hole in the deck u can close if needed

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Set your sights high little bird!

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Lol, I will…I’m determined to chuck my board in the ocean and claim the title for myself

Lol, I went with 1/2"

Let’s hope it is enough or I am dumping liquid nitrogen in there :joy:

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The last time I went to the junk yard I nearly picked up a 3/4" block of solid copper…maybe its still there. If not I have 1/2" aluminum

I have a question

tenor

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Marcellus Wallace’s soul

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Water proof charge port and @longhairedboy no holes in box method, it might just be worth jumping in after a total submersion :smile:

thread reminded me of this poor guy… My Evo would enter ‘paperweight’ mode the same time I hear a splash lol

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that river was hungry. ate the meepo and went after the one wheel twice lol

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1 hole

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the truck snapped so he lost control when he was carving and it went flying?

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o. that’s depressing. and he just got that board.

I would have been naked and in that water in 5 seconds flat

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Hmmm… :thinking:

Each P grp has its own wireless QI charge module and a special charging platform with matching layout of wireless chargers.

would the trick be to stack as many receiving coils into the box as possible you think? Aren’t they thin and sheet like? Jake and i were wondering if really big ones could be made to cover the whole inside bottom of the box, like 150x600mm or something.

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A coil for each Parallel group. On the receiving end transmitting end. So ten transmitter and receiver coils for 10s.
Could ditch the B0505S isolators on the transmitting ends maybe and hook up separate 5V inputs for faster charge, because currently it’s splitting the amperage between the series and those modules have pretty high efficiency loss, like 30% or so.

Someone smarter than me please correct my stupid schematic. Am I dumb or would this even work?

I think it’s easier and more efficient to make a single connection for the entire S-count, not one for each P-pack.

It just seems like a shit ton of work for something with a easier work around. Just my 2 cents :man_shrugging:

Until wireless charging can become more efficient its not practical at all.

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I like this however no one makes a waterproof XT90 so not realy waterproof unless you plaster it in some sort of spadge.

I run a unity with dual 6880 motors, 80A per motor on pneumatic’s and i weight 280lbs.

My Unity is bolted to an enclosed aluminium “heat sync” that sits against the bottom of my enclosure.

The plate is only a few mm thick but adds substantial surface area. And spreads the heat over a larger area of the enclosure.

I find it very dificut to get my Unity above 35C (about 20c over ambient) so i would say for most people a heatsync mounted internally should be good enough.

Also some thermal compound goes a long way :slight_smile:

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